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French wine industry battle

Olivier Cousin plows his vineyard, using his horse, Romeo. The horse enables Cousin to limit pollution and doesn't pack in the soil the way tractors can.

Olivier Cousin plows his vineyard, using his horse, Romeo. The horse enables Cousin to limit pollution and doesn’t pack in the soil the way tractors can.  (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)

A movement of natural winemakers are battling with the regulators of the French wine industry.

Making "natural" wines

Frenchman Olivier Cousin makes “natural” wines with grapes grown organically, and no chemicals or other additives are used at any point in the winemaking process.  (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)

Learning about making wine

Olivier Cousin, in his vineyard, shows a class of children how to use a plow horse.  (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)

Tasting the wine

In his cellar, Olivier Cousin tastes his “natural” wines. He has been officially notified that he faces a fine of $50,000 for putting the name of his region, Anjou, on his bottles.  (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)

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Winemaker

Artisanal winemaker Dominique Leandre-Chevalier inspects his vineyard in Bordeaux’s Blaye region. He says the careful work he does on his small vineyard is more like gardening than raising crops.  (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)

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