Tropical zone

1/17

Congo dancers from Colon, on the Caribbean side of Panama, perform at Xoko restaurant in the El Cangrejo neighborhood of Panama City. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

2/17

Framed by an arch of the Church of St. Francis of Asissi, modern Panama City seems to rise from tranquil Panama Bay. The church, in Casco Antiguo, was built in the late 1600s, and has suffered several devastating fires. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

3/17

A vendor snoozes at the Balboa arts and crafts market, a popular venue for souvenir shoppers. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

4/17

A young Panamanian spectator of Panama City’s annual parade of the Thousand Polleras along Calle Cincuenta. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

5/17

A Kuna woman presents a signature of her culture. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

6/17

Popular Panamanian singer/accordionist Osvaldo Ayala performs at Bingo 90, a casino in the heart of Panama City. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

7/17

The Panamanian town of Portobelo, from the Church of the Black Christ. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

8/17

At Panama City’s Parade of the Thousand Polleras. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

9/17

The Panama City skyline is a backdrop to fishermen sailing from Casco Viejo in the city’s old quarter. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

10/17

Chico, one of many colorful characters populating Casco Viejo in Panama City, is a living landmark. He has sold “raspado,” or flavored shaved ice, for nearly 50 years from a corner across from the Municipal Palace. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

11/17

A view of Panama City’s growing skyline from atop the Saint Francis of Asissi church tower. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

12/17

Newly renovated apartment buildings rejuvenate the Casco Viejo neighborhood of Panama City’s old quarter. The community’s 13 churches date from the turn of the last century, and are open to visitors. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

13/17

A Kuna woman from the San Blas islands on Panama’s Caribbean side. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

14/17

The Miraflores restaurant in Panama City overlooks the Panama Canal. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

15/17

Vintage records in Salsipuedes, a narrow street near Casco Viejo. Here, you can buy or sell anything, and have your palm read in between transactions. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

16/17

El Diablito Sucio, or the dirty devil, is a popular figure during carnival season. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

17/17

In the heart of Panama City’s gastronomic district of Calle Uruguay, intimate clubs like “La Bodeguita” shine at night. They attract dancers to the beat of salsa and reggaeton. (Beatrice de Gea / LAT)

June 25, 2006 12 AM PT

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Copa offers nonstop service and Copa, American, Delta and Mexicana offer connecting service (change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $530.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 507 (country code for Panama) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel El Panama, 111 Vía España, Panama City; 215-9000, fax 269-3309, vwww.elpanama.com. Historic, tropical-style hotel where salsa singer Rubén Blades gave his first professional performance, centrally located in the banking district. Doubles begin at $125, including continental breakfast.

Gamboa Rainforest Resort, P.O. Box 7338, Zone 5, Panama City, 314-9000, www.gamboaresort.com. This full-service resort, just 30 minutes from downtown Panama City on the banks of the Chagres River within Soberania National Park, offers a spectacular natural getaway featuring an aerial tram over the jungle canopy. Doubles from $175.

Hostal La Casa de Carmen, Calle 1ra No. 32 El Carmen, Panama City; 263-4366, vwww.lacasadecarmen.com. Billed as Panama’s first bed-and-breakfast. The budget hostel is in a quiet neighborhood just one block from Via España. Doubles begin at $30, including continental breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT:

Manolo Caracol, Avenida Central y Calle Tercera, Casco Antiguo, Panama City; 228-4640. This trendy fusion restaurant in the historic quarter offers art exhibitions and a fixed-price menu with up to 11 courses, all for $16.

Parrillada Jimmy, Via Cincuentenario, Panama City, 226-1323, www.parrilladajimmy.com. Across from the Atlapa Convention Center and the Tourism Ministry headquarters, this casual family restaurant is a favorite lunch spot for Blades. Known for its steaks. Entrees $4.50-$15.50.

Restaurante Miraflores, Miraflores Locks, Panama Canal. Food is passable. Dining on the outdoor patio watching huge ships pass through the locks only yards away: priceless. Most expensive item $15.

TO LEARN MORE:

An extensive website, vwww.panamainfo.com, with information on travel, investment, retirement and more.

Official site of the Instituto Panameño de Turismo (the government’s tourism ministry), vwww.ipat.gob.pa.

-- Agustin Gurza