Southern comforts

GETTING THERE:

Clarksdale, Greenwood, and Greenville, about 50 miles apart, are the three corners of the triangle that make up the heart of the Delta. The nearest major airport is Memphis, Tenn., a little more than an hour’s drive from Clarksdale. From LAX, Northwest offers nonstop service. Continental, Northwest, US, Delta and American offer connecting service (change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $218.

WHERE TO STAY:

Shack Up Inn, 1 Commissary Circle, Clarksdale; (662) 624-8329, www.shackupinn.com. Here, B&B means “Bed & Beer.” Seven authentic sharecropper shacks and 12 more rooms in an old cotton gin, refurnished with all of yesterday’s rustic charm and today’s amenities. Double rooms from $50.

The Alluvian, 318 Howard St., Greenwood; (866) 600-5201, www.thealluvian.com. Swank cosmopolitan hotel. Blues tour packages available. Doubles from $175.

WHERE TO EAT:

Doe’s Eat Place, 502 Nelson, Greenville; (662) 334-3315. Dinner nightly. Entrees from $19. The most renowned eatery in the Delta. Amazing grilled shrimp and sopping slabs of steak half falling off mismatched china plates.

Abe’s BBQ, 616 State St., Clarksdale; (662) 624-9947. Lunch and dinner at the crossroads. Best barbecue in the Delta. Sandwiches from $3.50.

WHERE TO LISTEN:

Po Monkey’s, on Pemble Road one mile north of Merigold, 30 miles south of Clarksdale on U.S. 61. Go west a mile when you see the little green “Pemble” street sign on 61. Check www.cathead.biz for a schedule.

Bourbon Mall, Old Tribett Road, Bourbon; (662) 686-4389. “You don’t need no teeth to eat our beef!” is the slogan of this juke joint gem. Music and dinner, Mondays through Saturdays. Entrees from $15.

Ground Zero, 0 Blues Alley, Clarksdale; (662) 621-9009, www.groundzerobluesclub.com. Morgan Freeman’s juke joint, next door to the Delta Blues Museum. Dinner and live music Wednesdays through Saturdays. Burgers and catfish from $4.95. Cover charge from $5.

Club Ebony, 404 Hannah Ave., Indianola; (662) 887-9915. B.B. King still plays here once a year after his September festival. Live music Sundays. $2 cover before 8 p.m., $3 after.

Cat Head records, 252 Delta Ave., Clarksdale; (662) 624-5992, www.cathead.biz/livemusic.html. Up-to-the-minute music listings and festivals.

— Joshua Clark