Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch serves a classic American Cheddar version. (GENARO MOLINA / LAT)
The House’s version comes topped with delicate bread crumbs. (BOB CHAMBERLIN / LAT)
The House’s secret ingredient: Goat’s milk Cheddar made by Redwood Hill Farm in Sonoma County. (RICHARD HARTOG / LAT)
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Today: New American Cuisine chefs vary mac & cheese for better (using goat cheese Cheddar, shown here ) and worse (with everything from chipotle peppers to foie gras). (RICHARD HARTOG / LAT)