It’s all in the rice

The short- to medium-grained white rices traditionally used for risotto are the best ones to use for paella too.

By far the best is Vialone Nano from Italy’s Veneto region, says Spanish food authority Anya von Bremzen. “I’ve tried everything. It absorbs flavor really well, it remains separate.”

Second best is Arborio, the most common risotto rice. “It’s a little gummy, but it’s fine,” says Von Bremzen.

Carnaroli doesn’t absorb as much flavor, and Bomba, which is popular in Valencia and Alicante, is difficult to work with because it absorbs so much liquid and it stays very al dente.

Vialone Nano is available at Surfas in Culver City, (310) 559-4770, www.surfasonline.com; Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery in Santa Monica, (310) 395-8279, baycitiesitaliandeli.com; Vicente Foods in Brentwood, (310) 472-5215; Claro’s Italian Market, Arcadia, La Harba, San Gabriel, Tustin, Upland, West Covina, claros.com; Monsieur Marcel Gourmet Market in the Original Farmers Market, Los Angeles, (323) 939-7792, mrmarcel.com; and online at www.cooking.com and igourmet.com.

— Leslie Brenner