Jonathan Gold reviews Dongpo

A pork bun at Meizhou Dongpo Restaurant.

Chef Ted Yang carves the Meizhou duck at Dongpo restaurant.   (Mariah Tauger / For The Times )

Dongpo restaurant’s fresh fish in chile broth.

The minced chicken pudding in soup at Dongpo restaurant.

The Mapo tofu dish at Dongpo restaurant.   (Mariah Tauger / For The Times )

Patrons dine at Dongpo restaurant.

A chef carves the Meizhou roast duck at Dongpo restaurant.

Patrons dine at Dongpo restaurant.

A pot of hot tea at Dongpo restaurant.   (Mariah Tauger / For The Times )

Awaiting diners at Dongpo restaurant.