2008 Mirth Chardonnay

A project of Oregon’s Owen Roe Winery and offshoot Corvidae winery, Mirth Chardonnay is a rare commodity -- a moderately priced Chardonnay that drinks beautifully. The 2008 vintage, from Washington grapes, is clean and crisp and not over-oaked. Notes of apple and citrus coupled with a bright acidity give this less-than-$20 Chardonnay an appealing freshness and elegance.

It’s a great Indian summer basic, easy drinking and perfect with pretty much anything light, from omelets and frittatas to seafood pasta or risotto dishes, seared sea scallops and fried calamari.

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S. Irene Virbila --

Region: Columbia Valley, Oregon

Price: About $11

Style: Crisp and lean

What it goes with: egg dishes, seafood pasta and risotto, scallops and calamari

Where to find it: Bob’s Fine Wines in San Clemente, (949) 496-3313; Cardiff Seaside Market in Cardiff by the Sea, (760) 753-5445; Colorado Wine Co. in Eagle Rock, (323) 478-1985, www.cowineco.com; Flask Fine Wines in Studio City, (818) 761-5373, www.flaskfine wines.com; Laguna Culinary Arts Gourmet Cheese Shop & Wine Cellar in Laguna Beach, (949) 494-4006, www.laguna culinaryarts.com; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlake wine.com; Vendome Liquors in Toluca Lake, (818) 766-9593, www.vendometolucalake.com; the Wine Loft in Carlsbad, (760) 944-1412, www.thewine loft-carlsbad.com