A snappy fall lineup with crisp additions
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Peaking
Jerusalem artichokes: It’s not an artichoke, it’s a tuber and it’s not from Jerusalem but from North America. Regardless, Jerusalem artichokes, also marketed under the name “sunchokes” (thanks to distributor Frieda Caplan, queen of the kiwi fruit), are a welcome addition to the cold weather vegetable lineup. They are crisp in texture even if they are a little bland in flavor. Use them raw as a dipping vegetable, like jicama that’s not so sweet (I like to add them to a pinzimonio assortment for dipping in olive oil). Cook them gently and you can use them as a nuttier, sweeter replacement for potatoes -- they’re delicious pureed with butter. Vegetable expert Elizabeth Schneider recommends choosing the smallest, darkest-skinned ones to get the best flavor. A point of caution: After peeling, place them in a bowl of acidulated water -- apparently the one characteristic they do share with artichokes is a tendency to blacken when exposed to air.
Coleman Family Farms, $4 per pound.
Asian pears: There are several important varieties with different characteristics. Probably the most common, at least in the United States, is the Hosui, which is a large, round russet pear with a tender, grainy flesh and honeyed perfume. Shinseiki, which along with the Hosui is harvested in the early fall, is smooth-skinned with a bright yellow color and crisp, apple-like texture. Starting about now we’re seeing Nijisseiki, or “Twentieth Century” pears, which are a pale greenish-yellow even when ripe, and have a crisp texture. Those are all Japanese varieties. Just coming in is the Chinese pear called Ya Li, the only popular Asian pear that is “pear-shaped.” It is crisp and mild in flavor.
Various vendors, $2 per pound.
-- Russ Parsons
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