On the right side of the bed

From the number of places to have breakfast in Silver Lake, you’d think everyone in the neighborhood kept odd, or at the very least, relaxed hours. Espresso machines are busy spurting rivers of dark, fragrant coffee. Croissants are consumed in numbers that would do Paris proud.

At Dusty’s, on the corner of Sunset Boulevard and Descanso Drive, lay-a-beds can breakfast right through the lunch hour. Driving past the row of umbrellas in lollipop colors out front, you can observe people sitting at the outdoor tables, pouring coffee from a thermos and riffling through the paper or scribbling into journals.

Before moving to L.A., owner Maria Miller had spent all her life in Montreal, where she had five restaurants. That’s why the menu has a French Canadian twist. So along with the usual two eggs any style or granola and French toast, you can get your eggs chasseur (with a light tomato and mushroom sauce) or your crepes either “nature” -- with sweet butter and a sprinkling of sugar -- or with spinach and goat cheese, say, or chicken and mushrooms in a svelte bechamel sauce. Omelets are not of the kitchen-sink variety, but classique: Florentine with spinach and Parmesan or the more exuberant Provencal with all the vegetables that go into a ratatouille.

The place is laid back and charming, not so much “designed” as decorated with a collection of flea market finds. Lampshades have beaded fringes. A potted palm shivers in the breeze. Wraparound booths are upholstered in an updated patchwork. The art on the walls tends to photos of the young Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell and the Stones.

At lunch, a mix of businesspeople, tattooed hipsters, lovers and the very hungry settle in for salads, French onion soup, sandwiches and burgers -- either all-American beef or lamb, turkey, crab or veggie varieties to keep everybody happy.

The oddest thing on the menu, though, is poutine, billed as Quebec’s favorite snack. It was the first time for me, I admit, and it’s hard to describe: Think of it as potato gratin made with fries and mozzarella curds, the whole thing moistened with a light gravy. Eat enough of this stuff and you’d be well-padded for one of those deep-freeze winters ... but those who favor bellies bared, beware.

The kitchen sometimes takes a long time to get the food out. In this neighborhood, that’s not such a problem; Dusty’s already has quite a following. But now, after months of waiting, Dusty’s has finally gotten a liquor license and will start serving wine and beer in early June.

Dinner service also starts in early June, when the hours will change -- the place will be open from 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., then from 5:30 p.m. to midnight (or 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday). If the kitchen is smart enough to keep it simple and shy away from overly ambitious dishes, Dusty’s should slide right into home base with their moderate prices and extremely generous portions.

Bienvenue.

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Dusty’s

Where: 3200 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake

When: Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. No alcohol at present. Valet parking.

Cost: Breakfast items, $6 to $13; soups, $4 to $6; salads, $6 to $14; sandwiches, $10 to $11; burgers, $9 to $13; lunch entrees, $14 to $17.

Info: (323) 906-1018; fax (323) 906-9356