Old school

The Grill on the Alley

The Grill opened in 1984, just as nouvelle cuisine had peaked and diners were starting to crave well-prepared American cuisine again, served in dark wood booths with no exposed air ducts to offend the eye. It’s known for old-fashioned chophouse food, quick service and no fuss.

* New York pepper steak, $35.75. 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-0615

Sir Winston’s

This is the formal restaurant on the Queen Mary, meaning that men have to wear jackets and women real dresses -- no matter how close we are to the beach. In retro-ness, the food ranges from warm goat cheese in a fried potato basket (how ‘70s!) to souffle Grand Marnier (how ‘30s!) and the once- ubiquitous beef chateaubriand. Reservations are obligatory.

* Chateaubriand for two, $68. 1126 Queens Highway, Long Beach, (562) 499-1657.

The Polo Lounge

After six decades of catering to movie industry figures, the Polo Lounge is as clubby as you can get. It’s a place for power breakfasts as well as power lunches. In recent years the menu has veered toward Asian fusion, but you can still get extravagant old favorites such as a whole ounce of beluga caviar with blinis.

* Beluga with blinis, $140. Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-2251.

Arnie Morton’s of Chicago

The booths are leather, the bar is dark wood and the steaks are tender -- and immense -- at this place that subtitles itself “The Steak House.” It boasts an 800-degree broiler that can char your steak on the outside while leaving it rare inside.

* Porterhouse steak, $42. 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 246-1501; also locations in Santa Ana, Burbank and downtown Los Angeles.

Tam o’Shanter Inn

With eight decades under its belt, this place has evolved from a faux-Scottish-theme restaurant to something that’s somehow genuine. Maybe it’s the comfortable booths or the solid feel or the architecture. Or maybe it’s the flavorful prime rib.

* Prime rib, $24-$33. 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 664-0228.

-- Charles Perry