Wine of the Week

Brunello di Montalcino is Chianti Classico’s brooding big brother. It uses a clone of the same Sangiovese grape, but the vineyards around the medieval hilltop town of Montalcino give a deeper, more opulent character to the wine. Ever since Count Biondi-Santi “invented” Brunello in the late 19th century, it has commanded prices that would make a simple Chianti blush.

Not all Brunellos live up to their aristocratic reputation, but when they’re great, they have the drama and power of a world-class tenor. For an introduction, try the smooth, luscious, modestly priced (for a Brunello) 1997 Val di Suga. It carries a haunting scent of cherries and toasted wood, and the lovely, lingering finish leaves a taste of dark cherries and plums.

This is a wine for autumn foods: roasted birds (it’s not too early to start thinking turkey), stews and grilled meats.

About $32. Available at many fine wine shops and retailers.