2000 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape

This domaine has always made great Chateauneuf, but its latest release seems to mark a departure from the rustic, earthy Vieux Telegraphe style we have known. The scent is less of garrigue, more of wild raspberry and rose petal with a delicate touch of oak. The taste is remarkably clean and focused, highlighting the gorgeous fruit. Add smooth, silky tannins and the result is a particularly elegant Chateauneuf, one you can drink with pleasure now or hold back to enjoy its evolution over the next 15 years.

When I taste something like this, I think game -- wild duck roasted over the spit, squab, venison, etc. But since I’m not expecting a hunter to show up on my doorstep anytime soon, I’ll go with pork roast or a leg of lamb redolent of herbs.

Quick swirl

Region: Southern Rhone.

Price: About $45.

Style: Robust yet elegant red.

Food it goes with: Roasted and braised meats, game birds.

Where you’ll find it: This vintage is just arriving at fine wine shops and retailers, but in limited quantities. Due to high demand, it won’t be around long.