Closet Information

Like it or not, it’s difficult to escape the influence of the men and women who make clothes their business. So what does the fashion world see us sporting--and avoiding--in 1997? Here is a sampling of opinions from style makers.

Lauren Goldstein, wardrobe stylist for MTV, New York City:

“I’m sick of the heroin, skinny, mismatched, homeless look. The look for ’97 is healthy, pretty, feminine. Believe it or not, the [spring collection] that most inspired me was Ralph Lauren’s. The models evoked health. For my veejays, I’m going pretty, feminine and modern. Kennedy is very into this, with a ‘50s glam twist; she loves Isaac, Chanel. Idalis likes it funkier, so for her I’m going bold, clean and sexy: Gucci-inspired. For men, we’re continuing to scale it down. I’m turning Bill Bellamy onto sleek and modern, a little ‘60s-inspired in the slim silhouettes. And ties for men--even with jeans.”

Don’t do this: “Those mismatched and ugly op art ‘70s prints. I’m also tired of hip-huggers that are supposed to fit 10-year-old boys.”

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Long Nguyen, style director for Detour magazine, New York City:

“The most important trend for ’97 and forward into the end of the century is the affirmation of sexual differences. One can tell who’s a man and who’s a female in the new fashion bodies. In menswear, the rigid suit is not so important. It’s replaced by the shirt suit--undressing men one bit further. In women’s, 70% of what designers showed was transparent clothes. Much of those clothes won’t be worn, but the message will pass on: Show the body, emphasize femininity. This is not about drag queens. It’s about real women and real men emphasizing their physical beauty.”

Don’t do this: Unisex anything.

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Rick Klotz, designer and owner of Fresh Jive, Los Angeles:

“We’re working with a mix of styles, much less streamlined than the last couple of years. Instead of going solely with a ‘70s athletic look or a ‘50s retro look, the originality is in the mix. We’re not trying to be so retro either. Although I’d like to see leopard-print T-shirts back in.”

Don’t do this: baggy pants.

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Jenny Phillips, inventory manager for the vintage store Wasteland, Los Angeles:

“We get every designer and stylist in here. Anna Sui, [Jean Paul] Gaultier, you name them. What we’re preparing for is this ‘Valley of the Dolls’ look, a cocktail-lounge, end-of-the-’60s feel with long dresses made from shiny materials, plastic colored belts. The ethnic look is also getting big--anything embroidered, long flowing dresses, Indian fabrics. We’re hoping to see a resurgence in bias-cut ‘30s dresses, ‘40s Evita looks.”

Don’t do this: “Anything ‘70s disco. We sold this stuff heavily for the last two years. Now we’re not selling many bell-bottoms at all.”