Stalking Asparagus

Asparagus is one of my favorite vegetables at any time of year, and right now it seems to be everywhere--green stalks, both thick and thin, and squat white ones. There are also purple stalks around, white stalks that have been left to grow a bit taller in the light but whose chlorophyll has not yet turned the stalks green. They lack both the charming bitter edge of the white and the sweetness of the green.

I’ve even been offered “wild” asparagus by my greengrocer, with stalks the thickness of chives and larger, mature tops. It has barely any flavor and tastes, if anything, more like okra than like asparagus.

White asparagus is cultivated in mulch. Since they are always from mature root stock, the spears are usually very thick. And because the spears are cut as soon as they emerge into sunlight, they are shorter than green spears. They are also very woody and require vigorous peeling.

The plant uses its sugar store to develop its woody outer surface, so white asparagus can be a tad bitter, but in an agreeable way. Because it’s not grown in sunlight, though, it lacks the distinctive asparagus flavor of the green variety.

White asparagus is sturdier than other kinds, and more forgiving: That gray area of cooking perfection between crisp and overcooked is wider. To me, white asparagus has the robust texture of a piece of meat. It is best served simply with some butter and shallots, a squeeze of fresh lemon or a touch of white wine.

Except for the extremely thin spears, green asparagus needs to cook to a certain point of tenderness to release its wonderful, murky flavor and aroma. Cook the thin stalks al dente to keep their vibrant green color but don’t expect the taste to be as developed as, say, the taste of thicker stalks cooked slightly longer.

The trick to keeping any green asparagus green is to parboil it quickly, leaving it still firm, then flash it under cold running water--or better yet, plunge it into a generous amount of ice water--to immediately stop the cooking. Lay the stalks on paper towels to sop up extra moisture. Then, just before you’re ready to serve it, finish the cooking by simmering it in some butter or olive oil.

Thin stalks of asparagus come from young root stocks. They are tender and don’t require peeling or preliminary blanching. They also have little flavor and are nice to throw into vegetable ragouts or use to garnish fish, poultry and white meats. They’re good cut up and stir-fried. They’re cute, but they’re not for the serious asparagophile.

Medium-size stalks are sweet but don’t have what I describe as a strong essence-of-asparagus flavor, that flavor between the astringency of an artichoke and the sulfuric odor of overcooked broccoli. They require no peeling, but the stalk ends are stringy and must be trimmed. The best way of knowing where to trim is hold the stalk at each end and bend. The stalk should snap at the point where it becomes tender.

Jumbo green asparagus is the best of all--the king of vegetables. Its store of sugar has been used to develop the stringy, rather than the woody, outer skin, and its green chlorophyll flavor has developed. The texture is tender yet meaty. In cooking, you need to be more accurate than with the white asparagus. You want tender spears, neither crisp nor mushy.

To avoid overcooking the tender asparagus tips, some people tie asparagus into bundles and stand them in water in specially designed asparagus cookers. I prefer to cook asparagus in a larger quantity of water than an asparagus cooker holds. If carefully handled, the tips shouldn’t get damaged, even when cooked in a large pot.

What also endears asparagus to me is that it’s considered proper to pick up a spear and eat it with your fingers. That means that the cook needn’t worry too much about properly trimming the bottom of the spears, for they are, in effect, a natural handle. So, remember, when you serve asparagus, pass the sauce in a boat or sauce only the top half of the spears.

WHITE ASPARAGUS WITH VERMOUTH AND SHALLOTS

2 pounds white asparagus

Salt

1/4 cup butter

3 tablespoons finely minced shallots

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 cup dry vermouth

Peel asparagus well and trim off 1/2 inch from bottoms of stalks. Bring large pan of salted water to boil. Add asparagus and simmer, uncovered, 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness of asparagus, until tender but not mushy. Drain and immediately plunge spears into ice water. When completely chilled, place spears on paper towels.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat in large skillet. Add shallots, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper and cook until shallots are softened, about 2 minutes. Add asparagus and cook, turning once, about 3 minutes. Remove from skillet. Arrange on serving platter and keep warm.

Add vermouth to skillet. Increase heat and cook until liquid is reduced by half. Remove skillet from heat. Beat in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Pour sauce into sauce boat. Serve asparagus and sauce immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

189 calories; 417 mg sodium; 31 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.94 grams fiber.

ASPARAGUS TIAN

I adapted this recipe from “La Table de Provence” by Guy Gedda.

3 pounds large green asparagus

3/4 cup whipping cream

Dash freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons shredded Swiss cheese

Peel asparagus and trim ends. Cook in boiling salted water 6 minutes or until barely tender. Drain asparagus and place in ice water bath. When cold, remove and drain on paper towels. Cut each stalk into 4 pieces and set aside.

Combine cream, nutmeg, salt, pepper and lemon juice in skillet and set over medium heat. Bring to boil. Cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add asparagus and cook until asparagus is very tender and cream begins to thicken.

Transfer contents of skillet to 12-inch-diameter baking dish. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake at 375 degrees until golden, about 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

245 calories; 328 mg sodium; 65 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 2.82 grams fiber.

ANGEL HAIR PASTA WITH ASPARAGUS, SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND PINE NUTS

6 pieces sun-dried tomatoes

1/4 cup white wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup minced shallots

1/2 pound pencil-thin green asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/4 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup whipping cream

Salt, pepper

1/2 pound angel hair pasta, cooked according to package directions until al dente and drained

Grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

Soak tomatoes briefly in wine to soften slightly. Coarsely chop tomatoes and set aside in any extra liquid.

Heat oil in skillet. Add shallots, asparagus and pine nuts and cook 1 minute, tossing. Add broth, cream and tomatoes and cook until liquid is reduced to sauce-like consistency, 7 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with pasta and serve immediately. Offer grated cheese on the side.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

409 calories; 168 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.79 gram fiber.