Take an Egg Break

Brunch sounds so relaxed, but it isn’t necessarily so for the cook, who’s usually dashing around at the last minute getting it all together. So one recent Sunday morning, I worked out a brunch menu that was fresh and flavorful but mostly done ahead so I could relax with my guests. It would be excellent for Mother’s Day.

Although I love huevos rancheros, I always leave it to restaurants because it’s a last-minute deal at the stove. My solution: Turn its elements into a casserole, with all of the flavor and substance of huevos rancheros but no last-minute hassle, apart from putting it in the oven.

Garnishes--shredded cheese, sliced green onions, salsa, cilantro, sour cream and diced avocado tossed in lime juice, all passed in separate dishes--help the dish stand on its own. You could also serve sausage, ham or bacon on the side.

To follow this casserole, serve the refreshing fruit compote and warm penuche-glazed walnut spice cakes with steaming rich-bodied coffee. The menu could also make an evening meal with the addition of a mixed green salad.

HUEVOS RANCHEROS CASSEROLE

1 1/2 tablespoons oil

1/2 jalapen~o chile, minced, seeded if desired

3/4 cup chopped onion

3/4 cup chopped green bell pepper

5 eggs

3 egg whites

1/3 cup water

3/4 teaspoon salt

5 corn tortillas, torn into bits (about 1 cup)

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and diced (1/2 to 2/3 cup)

1 cup shredded mild Cheddar cheese

2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro leaves

For serving: salsa, light sour cream, diced avocado tossed in lime juice, shredded mild Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced green onions, cilantro

Heat 1/2 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add jalapen~o, onion and bell pepper. Cook, uncovered, until onion softens, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat eggs, egg whites, water and salt in large mixing bowl. Stir in tortilla pieces. When vegetables are cooked, stir into egg mixture.

Heat remaining oil in same skillet (without washing) over medium heat. When hot, add egg mixture. Scramble eggs until half-cooked (with some liquid), about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in tomato and 3/4 cup cheese. Transfer to lightly greased shallow 5-cup baking dish. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese.

Can be made 1 day ahead to this point and refrigerated, covered airtight.

Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees until lightly browned and puffy, about 25 minutes (slightly longer if chilled). Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve hot or warm. Serve garnishes separately.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving, without garnishes, contains about:

255 calories; 544 mg sodium; 197 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.

PENUCHE-GLAZED WALNUT SPICE CAKES

Penuche is a fudge-like creamy candy made with milk or cream, brown sugar, butter, vanilla and often nuts. According to food writer Carole Bloom, the name comes from a Mexican word for raw sugar. Here, a penuche-flavored glaze goes on spice cakes that come together as easily as muffins. Be sure to serve the cakes slightly warm.

WALNUT SPICE CAKES

1/2 cup oil

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 egg

3/4 cup low-fat buttermilk

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

WALNUT SPICE CAKES

Whisk together oil, granulated and light brown sugars, egg and buttermilk in large mixing bowl. In small dish, stir together flour, baking soda, salt and walnuts. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients, stirring just until mixed.

Fill 12 greased or paper-lined muffin cups nearly full and bake at 375 degrees until muffins are lightly browned and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 18 to 20 minutes.

PENUCHE GLAZE

1 tablespoon melted butter

2 tablespoons buttermilk

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

Beat together butter, buttermilk, powdered sugar, allspice and light brown sugar in small dish.

Spoon butter mixture over hot muffins, about 1 teaspoon per muffin. Let muffins rest 15 minutes before removing them from cups and serving.

Serve warm. To reheat, arrange single layer on baking sheet and place in 300-degree oven until warm, about 10 minutes. Or reheat in a microwave oven in increments of 20 seconds on medium power (50%) until just warm.

Makes 12 cakes.

Each cake contains about:

266 calories; 136 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.27 gram fiber.

CITRUS FRUIT COMPOTE

Here, fresh fruit is flavored with an orange juice concentrate mixture and grated orange peel. Freeze remaining orange juice concentrate in an ice cube tray to be available for other fruit and berry mixtures during the summer. This fruit is best mixed a few hours ahead so the flavors have a chance to settle. If you’re adept at segmenting oranges, by all means add a few oranges to the mix.

1 cantaloupe, flesh removed with melon baller

1 1/2 pints strawberries, washed, hulled, split lengthwise

2 cups seedless grapes, split lengthwise

5 tablespoons orange juice concentrate, thawed

Grated peel of 2 oranges

2 to 4 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons lime juice

2 teaspoons dark rum

Combine cantaloupe balls, strawberries and grapes in large bowl. Stir together orange juice concentrate, grated peel, 2 tablespoons sugar, lime juice and rum. Add to fruit. Gently toss fruit until coated. Add more sugar to taste. Chill for 2 hours, no more than 4 hours. Serve chilled.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

118 calories; 10 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1 gram fiber.