A Pleasant Trattoria in Beverly Hills

After languishing empty for almost two years, the old Bice space in Beverly Hills at the corner of Canon Drive and Dayton Way finally has a new tenant. The new Italian Caffe & Trattoria On Canon is brought to us by the owners of Il Forno in Santa Monica (and Tokyo). With this addition, the sum total of Beverly Hills’ Italian restaurants must be edging up on New York’s Little Italy.

But On Canon Caffe & Trattoria opens at 7 a.m. for breakfast (both Italian-style and traditional American) and stays open all through the afternoon, serving pizzas, panini and pastries up until the dinner, which is served until 11 p.m. weeknights, later on the weekends. It’s meant to be an all-purpose, any-time-of-the-day cafe. And it’s kid-friendly: Tables are covered with paper, all the better for scribbling.

It’s a great-looking space with tall wraparound windows, a long counter for dining solo and, in the far corner, a big open kitchen as brightly lit as an operating room. It’s also incredibly boisterous. It is a trattoria, not a more formal ristorante . “Shall I turn down the music?” shouts a hostess in lace.

The place was packed and a trio of waiters belted out “Happy Birthday” four times in the space of an hour.

Prices seem almost too inexpensive for this room, this location: osso buco for $10.95, rack of lamb for $14.95? What’s most appealing are the hours. I like the idea that I can stop in the late afternoon for a panini, run by in the early morning for a cappuccino and a croissant, or come by for a plate of ricotta and spinach gnocchi after a movie.

* On Canon Caffe & Trattoria, 301 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 247-2900. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $5.95-$9.95, pizzas $7.95-$8.95, pastas $7.95-$11, entrees $10.95-$14.95.