SPECIAL CRUISE ISSUE : Mexico : Coasting the Riviera : Thumbnail guide to popular cruise ports of call south of the border

For many Southern Californians, a journey along the stretch of Pacific Coast known as the Mexican Riviera serves as an economical introduction to cruising.

Though the plunging value of the peso has had a relatively minimal effect on prices in foreign tourist-filled Pacific ports this winter, a Mexican Riviera cruise remains a bargain: With air fare taken out of the cost equation, one-week cruises from Los Angeles to Puerto Vallarta start at less than $100 per person, per day.

Broadly defined as the ports located along a route between Cabo San Lucas and Acapulco, the Mexican Riviera attracts most cruise passengers during the winter season, October to May (though Carnival Cruise Line’s Jubilee sails the route year-round). Seven-day, round-trip cruises from Los Angeles usually include stops at Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. Calls at Acapulco and Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo are generally limited to 10-day cruises from Los Angeles, repositioning cruises between the Caribbean and Alaska, and Panama Canal cruises between Acapulco and a port in Florida or the Caribbean.

Here, from north to south, is a thumbnail guide to major ports along the Mexican Riviera:

CABO SAN LUCAS

In a dramatic location where the waters of the Pacific meet the Sea of Cortez, this tiny village has been transformed into a world-class resort--and a popular destination for Southern California visitors.

Getting around: It’s a 10- to 15-minute stroll into town from the pier where cruise ship tenders drop off passengers, so don’t get a taxi unless you want to explore the outskirts of town or visit less-touristy San Jose del Cabo, about 20 miles to the northeast.

What to see and do: Shore excursions average two to three hours and include a 20- to 30-minute boat ride to Los Arcos, a series of rock arches where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez with a mighty roar. You’ll get close-up views of pelicans and sea lions (about $25 per person), or, for those who prefer terra firma, an hour or so of driving along the Los Cabos resort area (about $30 per person). Other options include a 50-minute submarine ride (about $30) and sportfishing (about $125 for four hours). On your own, stroll around town or shop at the outdoor crafts market by the pier or at one of those in town (which are less crowded).

What to buy: Baja California produces very few crafts, so most of what you’ll find in the markets has been shipped over from the mainland. Good bets are leather sandals (which may be made locally, depending on the shop) for $20 or less.

Where to eat: You’ll only be here in the morning on most cruise ships (the sea churns up in the afternoon and everybody leaves), but Cabo Wabo Cantina serves breakfast (about $10-$15 for two). Check here for Van Halen souvenirs; the owners belong to the band and run a small gift shop on the property. The Giggling Marlin charges about the same. The real bargain is at Mama’s Cafe Royal: all you can eat for $10 at dinner, less than $4 at breakfast.

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MAZATLAN

A favorite destination for college kids on spring break, Mazatlan is a major city with an emphasis on shrimping, fishing and real estate, as well as tourism.

Getting around: Both regular taxis and less expensive open-air taxis can be hailed on the street (about $7-$8 per person from the cruise port into the main hotel zone and center of town).

What to see and do: A half-day city tour (about $30 per person) usually includes the restored downtown and Angela Peralta Theater, Zona Dorado tourist beach and shopping area, El Cid residential area and marina, the Malecon seafront drive, carnival costume museum, cathedral and covered market. On your own, head for the beach at Zona Dorado and go para-sailing or catch some rays.

What to buy: Bright gauzy cotton clothing from Mexico Mexico or Designer’s Bazaar (from $10-$15 an item), crafts from La Carreta shops (three locations), shoes or cowboy boots from about $45-$90.

Where to eat: Doney, downtown in the historic district, is an old-fashioned spot with traditional furnishings, large portions and mostly local families as clientele and features a delicious green chili soup and huge combination plates. Lunch for two, food only, about $15.

The Shrimp Bucket (lunch for two, food only, about $20), Senor Frog’s (ribs or carne asada at lunch for two, food only, $15-$20), Mamuca’s (seafood grill for two, about $25), Mr. A’s (tortilla soup and shrimp chipotle are specialties; lunch for two, food only, about $20). *

PUERTO VALLARTA

This fabled “fishing village” (a local historian once told us indignantly, “We were never fishermen here”) catapulted to international fame when director John Huston filmed his 1964 production of “The Night of the Iguana” here.

Getting around: There are no regular taxis, only vans or chauffeur-driven cars at the pier. Vans charge $2-$3 per person for the 10-minute ride into town. The walk is an hour or more if you stroll along the beach.

What to see and do: Shore excursions (a half day costs about $28) usually include a shopping stop or two and a drive along the coast, with pauses at Mismaloya Beach (where “The Night of the Iguana” was filmed and the decaying film set is still discernible) and Gringo Gulch (nicknamed for the rich Americans, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, who first bought places there.

On your own, walk around town for shopping or lunch, stop by the zocalo (town square) and visit the distinctive Iglesia de Nuestra Senora Guadalupe cathedral with a crown on top.

What to buy: Whimsical Sergio Bustamente animal sculptures and jewelry ($25-$1,000 or more), silver jewelry marked 0.925 or sterling ($10 to $500 and up--the silver town of Taxco is not far away).

Where to eat: The Hard Rock Cafe (tortilla soup is $3, hamburgers $5); Carlos O’Brien’s (seafood, burgers, lunch for two from $10-$25, food only).

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IXTAPA/ZIHUATANEJO

In this two-for-one port, visitors get a choice between colorful but gentrified Zihuatanejo with its pretty La Ropa Beach and low-rise resorts, and the government-created mega-resort of Ixtapa with its high-rise hotels and shopping malls.

Getting around: From the pier where the tender drops you in Zihuatanejo, taxis to the nearby resort and beach town of Ixtapa cost about $7 each way, a cab to La Ropa beach is about $3, or you can stroll easily into the town of Zihuatanejo from the pier.

What to see and do: Most cruise lines offer a half-day excursion to Ixtapa with shopping and a visit to a beach hotel (around $28), or you can play golf for $70 for 4 1/2 hours. On your own, walk around Zihuatanejo or head for the town’s La Ropa beach; take a cab over to Ixtapa for the beach and shopping.

What to buy: Folk art from Coco Cabana in Zihuatanejo, from $2-$200 or more; La Zapoteca in Ixtapa features crafts from Oaxaca and Chiapas; a Oaxacan rug runs about $22-$25.

Where to eat: In Zihuatanejo, Hotel Villa del Sol (where a $30 per person day fee for cruise passengers includes grilled seafood lunch, drinks, changing room, beach lounge chairs) and Coconuts (red snapper, banana flambe, lunch for two, food only, about $30).

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ACAPULCO

This in-again, out-again resort has been attracting much more domestic than international tourism business, thanks in part to the recent opening of a high-speed tollway that cuts the driving time between Mexico City and Acapulco to four hours.

Getting around: A taxi along the Costera to the Condesa Beach area and its brand-name shops is about $5 from the pier; to the popular Acapulco Princess Hotel, $15 or so each way. Souvenir shops, the city crafts market and fruit and vegetable market in the old town are a brisk 10-15 minute walk from the pier.

What to see and do: Shore excursions usually include a half-day trip to see the cliff-divers of La Quebrada, silver shopping and perhaps a visit to the Acapulco Princess (around $30).

What to buy: Sportswear from Aca Joe’s (pricey but trendy, such as a $45 sport shirt, a $25 T-shirt), souvenirs from the crafts market (at negotiable tariffs).

Where to eat: The Acapulco Princess, with attractive pools and sandy beach, offers both indoor and outdoor restaurants with prices ranging from about $15-$50 for two, food only; Carlos ‘n’ Charlie’s features the usual specialties from this chain, such as hamburgers and Tex-Mex, lunch for two, food only, from about $15-$30.