True to Taste : Native Sicilian Grapes Give Corvo Wines Their Regional Character and Light Charm

These days, it’s rare that grapes are indigenous to a specific region. Grown throughout the world, for example, are grapes used to make champagne and claret. Not so the grapes in Corvo wines, which remain a product of Sicily. Only on this Italian island, where palm trees sway and olive groves abound, can these grapes be found.

Sicilian wines are good values and Corvo, with its fine table wines, is no exception. Most bottles cost less than $11.

Corvo, which is Italian for crow, would not seem to be a likely name for a wine. But local legend says that an old villager, pestered by an attacking crow, was given a stick to beat it off. After doing so, the hermit stuck the stick in the ground. When spring came around, it bore leaves, blossoms and grapes!

The Duca di Salaparuta made wines from the grapes, which were on his estate at Casteldaccia, about 11 miles east of Palermo and overlooking the northern coast. But it was di Salaparuta’s great-grandson Enrico who, with his knowledge of French enology, brought the wines widespread acclaim.

As Corvo celebrates its 170th birthday, the Italian National Committee for the Protection of the Denomination of Origin of Wines (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is considering adopting a special overall appellation to be called “DOC Sicilia.” This would give DOC approval--a guarantee of high quality--for wines made from grapes from any of the island’s many viticultural areas. where olive and citrus groves abound and palm trees sway.

Regardless, Corvo sales haven’t suffered. In fact, half of the 850,000 cases that are produced each year are exported, with the United States being its largest buyer.

The Casa Vinicola Duca di Salaparuta is now under the direction of Piedmontese Franco Giacosa. In addition to underground cellars and handsome vaults for aging, the old winery at Casteldaccia also holds a museum. The new multimillion-dollar vinification center is at Aspra, a short distance away.

When I was there in September for the harvest, my fourth Sicilian viticultural idyll, I was told of a change. “We’re not harvesting Trebbiano (a grape native to Northern Italy) any more,” Giacosa said. “It doesn’t give any regional character to our wines. We’re using only select, indigenous varieties--mostly Inzolia, Grecanico and Catarratto for the whites, Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese for the reds.” The white-wine grapes come from the vineyards’ higher locations, the reds from the warmer, lower coastal vineyards.

Since none of those grape varieties flourish in our own wine lands, one might wonder what Corvo tastes like. Here are some tasting notes of the more accessible wines, which can be easily found in most wine shops:

Corvo Bianco 1993 Duca di Salaparuta, $8.99. This pale, silvery-white wine has a delicate character and a light fruit bouquet. Clean, dry but not brittle, easily accessible, friendly in taste. Ideal for fish, avocado salads, or even a mild fettuccini Alfredo.

Corvo Rosso 1992 Duca di Salaparuta, $8.99. A surprisingly graceful bouquet leading to a most pleasing, almost velvety softness on the palate. This red wine is surprisingly good with all food.

Colomba Platino 1993 Duca di Salaparuta, $10.99. Giacosa is very proud of this “Platinum Dove,” a product of the land, 100% Inzolia and modern technology. No wood is used in its vinification, and there’s a hint of almonds in the aftertaste. The Platino is to be enjoyed young, well-chilled, with seafood. Great value.

Duca Enrico 1987 Duca di Salaparuta, $37.99. The Nero d’Avola grapes from eight vineyards’select bunches bring not only luminous ruby color, but also full-bodied taste, of non-tannic, soft and subtle complexity. Eighteen months aging in Troncais and Allier oak is assisted by seven months of bottle-aging. A fine wine to share with friends.