THE WINE LIST

Tradition says Asian food needs sake or beer, but with Matsuhisa’s eclecticism, fine wine also works well, especially if carefully chosen.

Some, alas, are out of range: 1971 Dom Perignon Rose might be perfect, but at $550, uh, well. . . .

Most parties have a wide range of foods, spicy and not, so a fine wine to marry flavors is 1991 Sancerre “Le Chene,” from Lucien Crochet, $32. More complex are the superb 1991 Gewurztraminer from Charles Schleret, $32; 1991 dry Riesling from August Eser, $33, and 1992 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc, $18.

White works better than red here, leaving out most of the fine Bordeaux (just as well, since the cheapest is $100). For those who must have red, try 1989 Havens Merlot Reserve, $33; 1991 Domaine Drouhin (Oregon) Pinot Noir, $50, or 1992 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir, $26.