Sweet Mama’s Back

At this time of year you can find winter squash in so many shapes and colors that it’s tempting to tuck one into the grocery bag and take it home to experiment on. That’s definitely the thing to do. Right now squash is not only fresh and abundant but also priced right.

Not always the most popular vegetable, squash has come into its own in recent years. This is due to both the resurgence of interest in American cooking and the vegetable’s prominence on the anti-cancer food list.

Each year more varieties of winter squash turn up. They have the most curious names--sweet mama, pink banana, buttercup, turban, marble head and kushaw, to name just a few. Along with the more common butternut and acorn squashes (including pumpkins), they all have hard, thick skins, slippery seeds and a firm, deep-yellow-to-orange flesh that can be sauteed fairly quickly. Although they cook quickly and perfectly in the microwave oven, they require prolonged baking to become soft in a conventional oven.

Whatever color, shape or size of squash you choose, be sure it is heavy for its size, with a solid, hard and deep-colored rind free of soft spots. Squash keeps well; refrigeration is not necessary. It can be stored in a cool, dark place for at least a month.

Preparing squash is easy. It can simply be baked whole. To determine when it’s cooked, pierce through the skin with a fork to see if it’s soft. Then cut in half, scoop out the seeds and fill the hollowed-out center with well-seasoned leftover rice or pasta, chutney or cranberry relish. You can also top with butter and brown sugar or maple syrup.

The recipes that follow go beyond straightforward baking or sauteing. The Autumn Bisque is as thick, rich and soothing as a normal bisque, although it is made without any cream. The spaghetti squash lasagna replaces pasta with squash; it’s an excellent main course that’s great for the buffet table or potluck meal. The spiced squash pancakes are deliciously light, a good option for breakfast, brunch or Sunday night supper with pan-fried sausage.

AUTUMN BISQUE

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 (2-pound) medium butternut squash, peeled, split, seeded, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

1 (1-pound, 6-ounce) trimmed celery root, peeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

6 cups chicken stock or broth, skimmed of all visible fat

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat olive oil in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, squash and celery root and saute until very fragrant, about 12 minutes, stirring often to avoid scorching. Add stock. Simmer, covered, until squash and celery root are very tender, about 25 minutes.

Strain liquid from solids. Return liquid to pot. Puree solids in food processor or blender until smooth. Combine puree and liquid. Stir well to combine. Add nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot. (Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated or frozen as long as 6 months.) Makes about 8 cups or 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

161 calories; 921 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 3.13 grams fiber.

This is basically a traditional baked pasta dish except that crisp, crunchy golden strands of spaghetti squash stand in for the usual lasagna noodles. An appealing vegetarian dish, it can be completely cooked in advance and reheated. Consider it for family gatherings and potluck dinners.

BAKED SPAGHETTI SQUASH LASAGNA

1 (2 3/4-pound) medium spaghetti squash, cooked in microwave oven about 12 minutes, or baked, then cooled for handling

3 tablespoons flour

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 (15-ounce) carton low-fat ricotta cheese, drained

1 cup packed spinach leaves

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup Italian-style red pasta sauce

6 ounces sliced mozzarella cheese

Split squash lengthwise. Remove seeds and stringy portion. Use fork to comb squash flesh, pulling it off in long strands. Place in large mixing bowl. Toss with flour, garlic and salt until well combined.

Blend ricotta, spinach and Parmesan cheese in food processor or blender until smooth.

To assemble, spread 1/2 cup sauce on bottom of shallow 6-cup baking dish. Top with spaghetti squash, arranging evenly and compactly. Spread ricotta mixture evenly over squash. Spread remaining sauce over ricotta. Cover with sliced mozzarella. Place on baking sheet to catch any juices during baking.

Bake on center rack of 350-degree oven, uncovered, until cheese is lightly browned on edges and juices bubble, about 40 to 50 minutes. Cut into squares and serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

330 calories; 495 mg sodium; 47 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 3.07 grams fiber.

Leftover squash has many uses; one of the best is in pancakes. Be sure to put some extra squash in the oven while you’re at it. Any winter squash (except spaghetti squash) will do; it must be baked until soft so it purees into a smooth batter. These pancakes are deliciously low-fat and light-tasting. They’re excellent plain or with currants, dried cranberries or pecans added to the batter for interest and texture. Serve them for breakfast, brunch, lunch or supper, topped with maple syrup or maple cream, apple butter, applesauce or sauteed sliced apples. The recipe can be easily doubled or tripled.

SPICED SQUASH PANCAKES

1 cup pureed winter squash

4 large egg whites

1/3 cup low-fat milk

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

2/3 cup cake flour

Scant 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Generous dash salt

Butter or margarine

Combine squash, egg whites, low-fat milk, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, flour, baking soda and salt in food processor or blender. Process until smooth.

Heat non-stick griddle with just enough butter to coat surface. When hot, spoon batter into 4-inch rounds. Cook over medium heat until browned on both sides, about 6 minutes. Keep pancakes warm in 200-degree oven while remaining pancakes are being cooked. Serve hot. Makes 8 (4-inch) pancakes.

Each serving contains about:

89 calories; 90 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.2 gram fiber.