The Beet Goes On

Beets are steadily filling the stands in our markets, and we find it almost impossible to pass by those wine-red bulbs and big, bushy leaves without filling our cart with them.

Some of our friends (apparently those haunted by childhood memories of Mom yelling, “Eat your beets”) have been passing them by for weeks. But it seems those remembered voices are getting the better of them, because suddenly they’re calling us to ask: “What can I do with these things so they won’t taste like what my mother made?”

Mother probably served canned beets, which taste nothing like their fresh counterparts. Fresh beets have a distinctively deep, sweet flavor; in fact, beets are about 10% carbohydrate, which is mostly in the form of sucrose. When cooked, they also have a firm, almost crisp texture that is not often present in canned beets.

Beets are a source of vitamins A and C, but to preserve these nutrients, beets should be cooked unpeeled, with some of the stems left on. If water penetrates the bulbous root during cooking, a good deal of vitamin loss will occur. And don’t forget the beet greens, which are much more nutritious than the bulbs--they’re high in Vitamin A and iron and have an appealing flavor of their own.

We love cooked fresh beets dressed with a vinaigrette and served next to a potato salad and blanched green beans. We also love Beet Greens With a Hint of Soy and the Victory Garden Beet Soup, a colorful celebration of the summer garden.

Serve this as a side dish or toss the cooked beets with an oil and vinegar dressing and serve over greens as a salad.

BASIC BEETS

1 pound whole beets (2-inch diameter), trimmed, leaving 1-inch stem

1/2 cup water

Combine beets and water in 1 1/2-quart microwave-proof casserole. Cover with lid or plastic wrap, turned back slightly. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) until easily pierced with knife, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes.

Let stand, covered, 3 to 5 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slip off skins and slice. Makes 4 servings.

If you’ve never had beet greens, try them mixed with a little soy sauce--a good counterpoint to sweet beets. We also like to add the greens to soup or stir them into cooked rice.

BEET GREENS WITH A HINT OF SOY

Green tops and tender stems from 1 pound beets, tough leaves and stems removed

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sesame, olive or canola oil

1 teaspoon soy sauce

Freshly ground pepper

Rinse leaves and stems and chop into 1/2-inch pieces. Set aside but don’t dry or drain (little water is necessary for cooking).

Combine garlic and oil in 2-quart microwave-proof casserole. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 30 seconds. Add greens and stems. Cover with lid or plastic wrap, turned back slightly. Microwave on HIGH until tender-crisp, 2 to 4 minutes, stirring once. Stir in soy sauce and pepper. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Here is a wonderful light summer meal that can be served hot or cold, with chunks of bread. The vitamins cooked out of the beets go right into the soup.

VICTORY GARDEN BEET SOUP

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 pound beets, peeled and shredded or cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1 cup grated zucchini

1/4 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Salt

2 cups chicken broth

1 cup low-fat yogurt or sour cream, optional

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh chives or green onion tops, optional

Put oil and onion in 3-quart microwave-proof casserole. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) until onion is tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add beets. Top with lid or plastic wrap, turned back slightly. Microwave on HIGH until beets are tender, 12 to 16 minutes, stirring twice.

Add zucchini, orange and lemon juices, pepper and salt to taste. Pour in broth. Cover and microwave on HIGH until boiling, 12 to 15 minutes, stirring once.

Let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Serve hot or cold, ladled into bowls or cups, topped with dollops of yogurt and sprinkled with chives. Makes 4 servings.