Swallowing Fish Stories : <i> There is something fishy going on at these ethnic restaurants. </i>

Aashiana Cuisine of India, 11645 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 207-5522. Style: Seafood is the Raj at this Indian restaurant. Setting: Posh, with second floor view of Wilshire Boulevard. Recommended dishes: Calamari Aashiana; fish tikka; fish Goa. Cost per person: $15-$35.

China Sea, 2130 S. Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 473-8948. Style: Mini-mall Chinese specializing in seafood. Setting: Hum-drum, saved by a sculpture over the bar. Recommended dishes: Fred’s Favorite Fried Oysters; shrimp with honey-glazed walnuts; scallops in a peppery-garlicky black bean sauce. Cost per person: $10-$25.

El Silencio Restaurant, 14111 Burbank Blvd., Van Nuys. (818) 997-9412. Style: Sleepy South American seafood and cevicheria. Setting: The Incas visit a New Orleans oyster bar. Recommended dishes: Tallarin saltado de mariscos (spaghetti mixed with shrimp, squid, octopus, scallops and clams); parihuela (seafood stew); camarones picante (spicy shrimp). Cost per person: $8-$15.

Goa Fish Grill, 361 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 659-8180. Style: Goan with gusto. Setting: Frantic. Recommended dishes: Seafood salad tamarindo ; frog legs; calamari . Cost per person: $10-$25.

Marinela, 13181 Mindanao Way, Marina del Rey. (213) 821-8866. Style: Mediterranean for oceanic grazers. Setting: Sun-bleached boaty. Recommended dishes: Poached oysters with saffron and aniseed; charred swordfish with lime butter; thoro (Basque fish chowder). Cost per person: $20-$35.