FOOD : Neoclassical Cuisine : Chef Dominique Chavanon of Le Meridien’s Antoine BLends Old and New

DOMINIQUE CHAVANON, THE young chef at Antoine in Le Meridien hotel in Newport Beach, says he is a contemporary French chef, something between classic and modern, moving slowly but surely toward Californian in style.

“I like Southern California cuisine because there are products at my disposal that one does not find easily in France. It’s challenging and exciting here, and I try something new all the time,” Chavanon says.

He is grateful, however, to some of the premier chefs in France for their in having given him opportunities to become the chef he is today.

“I owe much to both Les Freres Troigros and Paul Bocuse,” Chavanon says. (Both have been associated with the modern French movement that put nouvelle cuisine on the map). Chavanon, a native of Roanne in Southern France, worked with the Troigros brothers for more than 10 years. After a stint at the Connaught Hotel in London and La Maree in Paris, he worked for modern France’s culinary legend, Paul Bocuse, for two years before being sent to Orlando, Fla. There he developed a line of food for the Bocuse, Roger Verge and Anton Le Notre enclave. (Their packaged, prepared products, including wines are sold as boutique items throughout the country). “If it weren’t for Bocuse, I would not be in California,” Chavanon says.

The shrimp dish presented here, he says, is best served with informality, bordering on country. Certainly Southern style--France or California. Your choice.

SHRIMP WITH TOMATO-GINGER SAUCE (Dominique Chavanon) 6 large tomatoes 4 oranges 1 tablespoon peeled, chopped ginger root 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped mint leaves Salt, pepper 1/2 cup olive oil 12 medium shrimp, preferably Santa Barbara 2 tablespoons melted butter Dill sprigs Blanch tomatoes in hot water, then peel, seed and coarsely chop. Peel and segment oranges, reserving juices. Place tomatoes, orange segments, juice, ginger and garlic in saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until juices have evaporated. Place reduced mixture in a bowl. Add mint and season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk olive oil into mixture.

Saute shrimp in butter until barely done. Serve with tomato-ginger sauce. Garnish with dill sprigs. Serves 6.

Photographed by Teri Sandison / Food styled by Norman Stewart / Props courtesy of By Design, Beverly Center