The Gossiping Gourmet: Sapphire’s new spice plates go Caribbean

Editor’s Note: The Oct. 16 Gossiping Gourmet dining review, “Take a trip around the world at Sapphire,” was a repeat of a column that ran Feb. 6. The following should have appeared Oct. 16.

Azmin Ghahreman is going on a cruise. Sapphire’s globe trotting chef will be embarking on a Caribbean island tour, chefing and relaxing. In anticipation of this culinary adventure, he has conceived a new spice plate menu reflecting the flavors of the islands as well as a roster of rum drinks that will knock your sandals off.

We were invited to a tasting of all eight dishes plus a few surprises, as well as five intoxicating libations. In the interests of journalistic integrity we only took a sip of each drink but we did manage to put away all 10 mini-plates. These delicious nibbles were accompanied by four fabulous salsas and three phenomenal chutneys, providing an opportunity for everyone to play with their food. Our dining companions included a local radio chef-personality and several other food journalists. We each became chefs, as we searched for the perfect combinations, everyone making suggestions as to which condiment best complemented each dish.

Azmin proclaims himself a devotee of spicy foods and the salsas ranged from hot to hotter, with habañero topping the list. The mildest was the wonderful cilantro salsa, which still had a punchy finish. Climbing the heat scale were the guava and mango hot sauces. We both backed off on the habañero after one of our dining companions at Azmin’s suggestion took a big mouthful and proceeded to fan her mouth and beg for ice water.

The chutneys had a milder kick, and we were hard-pressed to choose a favorite as the pickled papaya was the perfect accompaniment to almost everything but the mango coconut chutney was so good that you just wanted to eat it by the spoonful. The Jamaican mango with raisins was pretty darned good too. The good news here is that Azmin plans to sell these in the pantry next door, so you can get creative at home.

We began this feast with a Chinese soup spoon full of lobster mango salad on a plantain chip. Mild in flavor on its own, but with the addition of the mango hot sauce, it was a nice beginning.

Lamb riblets had been cured, then boiled until tender and then barbecued in pineapple rum sauce. They were incredibly tender and flavorful and needed no condiments at all.

The very fresh and moist giant jumbo shrimp were baked in a complex, spicy tomato-based sauce with an underpinning of allspice and a gentle lingering heat that held the flavors in your mouth.

Jerk spices seasoned the little cubes of chicken thigh meat in Azmin’s Caribbean take on a mini-taco. The white corn tortilla shell was super-crispy and the chicken was topped with chili flavored sour cream and cabbage slaw. We recommend adding a bit of the cilantro salsa as the final touch for this delicious mélange of flavor and texture. This tongue-tingling taco elevated the genre to a new plateau.

Our least favorite was the sofrito spiced pulled pork spring roll. Sofrito is the basis for much Latin/Caribbean cooking. It’s a pureed mixture of tomatoes, sweet peppers, garlic, onions, cilantro and parsley, but still the pork filling was quite bland with a mushy texture and the spring roll wrapper tasted greasy either from the pork or the oil in which it was fried. Even the delicious pickled papaya couldn’t save it.

Much better was the steamed cheeseburger with spicy mayonnaise on a Hawaiian sweet bread bun. In all our gustatory ramblings we have never encountered a burger that was steamed! Whatever that may evoke for you, you’re wrong.

It turns out to be quite delicious, due in part to the excellent quality of the beef and in part to the well-seasoned patty with the chili mayonnaise; but unexpectedly, the steaming, although it cooked the burger through, rendered the meat very moist and juicy.

The final fillip was the creamy havarti cheese on top.

Barramundi has been on Sapphire’s menu since they opened but Azmin has created a new version of this popular sustainable fish. Pan-fried with a crispy bottom, it was served in a delicate banana curry sauce.

This is a tasty mild fish in a lightly seasoned sauce but if you want to kick it up as Terry did, the coconut mango chutney was the perfect choice. Elle, the fish purist, thought it was fine just as it was.

Following this delicate light fish came a very robust concoction of black beans and rice with bits of calamari.

The dish was fried in pork belly fat giving it a deep meaty richness. For non-meat-eaters, the menu does not mention the pork.

If you are making a meal out of spice plates, this one will really fill you up.

The two chef’s surprises not on the menu at the time were a wonderful crab fritter and Texas redfish skewers with papaya.

We hope the fritters will reappear in the future because they were really delicious, with a perfect, light crispy batter. The crab filling was slightly sweet and accented with corn. Served on the side were thin slices of octopus, drizzled with hot sauce and garnished with cilantro, resembling conch, the seafood that is the traditional ingredient in these fritters that are a Caribbean classic.

The five serious rum drinks will take you to the Caribbean and back without costly transportation.

Our personal favorite was the piña colada, the best either of us has ever tasted, featuring vanilla infused coconut rum, coconut milk and fresh pineapple juice”¦ although it tastes like dessert in a glass, beware, it goes down way too smoothly, subtle but lethal.

For you lightweights, there is a very refreshing non-rum drink called Roselle with house-made hibiscus essence, elderberry liqueur and sparkling Cava.

These terrific little plates are only on the menu Saturday and Sunday until the first of the year; so don’t wait too long for your next visit to Sapphire. However, we are sure Azmin will bring back some new creations inspired by his trip.

If You Go

What: Sapphire (949) 715-9888 sapphirellc.com

Where: 1200 S. Coast Hwy.

When: Daily 4 to 8 p.m.

Prices:

Spice plates: $7 to $9

Caribbean Cocktails: $12 to $15

ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at [email protected].