Restaurant Review:

For whatever reason, I wasn’t totally impressed by Pelican Hill’s restaurant Andrea until I learned about the heated floor.

The temperature-controlled pasta room, the similarly climate-controlled dessert room, the glassed-in wine room with 1,200 bottles and the 100-year-old balsamic vinegar used for salads was all very impressive, but for whatever reason I expected it.

But when I was told about the heated floor on the patio, that wowed me. It confirmed that the Irvine Co. was in pursuit of perfection, and no detail was left to chance.

That is not to say that the meal is not without its price. It is one of the more expensive Italian restaurants in the area, but I believe you are getting what you paid for and then some.

My meal started wonderfully with some simple olive and ricotta cheese dip with warm ciabatta bread.

Executive chef Jean Pierre Dubray has taken rustic Italian cuisine and made it simple and exquisite in both preparation and presentation.

Dubray also wants to use the freshest ingredients possible and has devised a seasonal menu that takes advantage of California’s produce while keeping true to the Italian dishes.

Some of the vegetables are garnered right on Irvine Co. property. The ranch in Irvine produces about 10% of the fruit and vegetables the restaurant uses.

The beginnings of the meal have options including an eggplant parmigiana with fresh tomatoes. The eggplant is left to dehydrate for two days to rid itself of any excess water.

The braised artichoke with parsley and bread crumbs had a fresh, mellow taste, with no hint of bite that sometimes accompanies this vegetable.

I also enjoyed the burrata insalata. The arugula works extremely well with the cheese that is infused with cream. It was an incredibly light salad.

My favorite of the starters, however, was the prosciutto and melon. The 18-month cured meat was exquisite, and when surrounding the Zibibbo wine-marinated cantaloupe produced a taste that was both mellow and fulfilling.

It was a decadent appetizer, though one I would have trouble paying $19 for, but when you come to Andrea you know that quality comes with a price.

There has been a lot written about the small portions of the meals, and I believe the restaurant has heard the rumblings. Most of the dishes I saw come out of the kitchen were adequate in size.

When it came time for my entrée I was tempted by the veal cutlet, though I was looking for something lighter. A fish I had not tried was enticing enough to try, and I am glad I did. The pan-seared turbot, a fish usually found off the Italian coast all the way to Iceland, is similar to a flounder and was tender throughout. It came with a delicate white wine sauce and spinach.

I had some of my guest’s roasted lamb and was quite impressed. The sweet onion and Marsala sauce reduction was very enjoyable.

The pasta, though, was one reason for my anticipation of eating here, and again I was not disappointed. The ravioli I had was such a simple dish, ricotta and spinach in a butter and sage sauce, but truly a pleasant combination of flavors.

The risotto I tasted was also very well done. There were three mushrooms, including chanterelle.

The service, as expected, was flawless.

The staff was friendly without being insincere, helpful without being patronizing and attentive without being smothering.

Andrea is a great place that emphasizes the commitment the Irvine Co. made to making Pelican Hill a world-class resort.

Like the golf course, though, it would be a once-a-year treat for me with the cost, but I know that I would be getting the best for my money.

Andrea

ADDRESS: 22701 Pelican Hill Road South, Newport Coast

PHONE: (949) 467-6800

WEBSITE: www.pelicanhill.com

CUISINE: Italian

SPECIALTY DISH: Osso buco

ALCOHOL SERVED: full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $16 to $36

FAMILY FRIENDLY: not really

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at [email protected] or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.