Restaurant Review:

I thought Wing Lam, one of the three brothers who owns Wahoo’s Fish Taco, was going to quit golf right then and there and take me to one of his restaurants.

It had been about eight years since I had moved to Orange County, and I had never been to a Wahoo’s.

We were playing Pelican Hill Golf Club several years ago with a mutual friend and when I learned who he was I mentioned I hadn’t eaten there.

He couldn’t believe it. To continue the round of golf, I promised him I would go to a Wahoo’s. I did, and have been going back regularly ever since.

What makes this place so appealing is the ingredients’ freshness and the innovation used to create some of the dishes.

When the three brothers, Wing, Ed and Mingo, moved with their parents from Brazil to Orange County in 1975, they adapted quickly to the surf lifestyle.

Like in Brazil, the three worked in the family restaurant, but on free days they were at the beach and soon they ventured down to Mexico. It was there they discovered the fish taco.

They combined that love of Mexican food with their Asian and South American roots and devised a menu that integrated all three countries.

The premise is simple. Pick a filling, grilled or blackened fish (mahi-mahi) or chicken, carne asada, carnitas, shrimp, or vegetables, which include mushrooms. Then figure out what you are going to put it in. The restaurant has tacos, enchiladas, burritos and bowls.

What I like is that they don’t look at you funny if you order something unusual. I had a request once of a carne asada and shrimp quesadilla. No problem, the woman at the register said. I have ordered combination plates in the past that aren’t on the menu, just improvising as I stand in line.

On one visit I had a burrito and had them mix blackened chicken with vegetables. That was extremely good; the mushrooms were cooked in Cajun spices and really added to the already zesty flavor.

When I am in the mood for rice and beans I order the combination plates. There are five of them and the most expensive is just under $8.

The surfer mentality of quantity and low price is evident with the combinations. There are burrito and taco combinations, or tacos and enchiladas, or any of them can be ordered by themselves.

There are two types of beans available. There is a spicy Cajun white bean and a traditional black bean. I prefer the Cajun white bean; it has more flavor. The ahi rice that comes with the dish has been spiced up with some pico de gallo. I like to combine the two beans and the rice, almost making it a dish in and of itself. They are more than happy to give you half and half of the beans.

One of my favorites is the Wahoo bowls. For $6 to $9, you can get a bowl filled with ahi rice and a choice of beans and meat ranging from carne asada marinated in teriyaki sauce to shredded carnitas that is pan grilled.

My favorite of the ones I have tried is the banzai bowl. I got shrimp and vegetables and again came at them with a special order. I got a little rice and filled up on both beans.

Though the brothers have made this into a successful chain with restaurants in all of California, and other parts of the nation, the motif of each is one that honors their love of surfing. The décor looks like a Mexican cantina and the hip, little restaurants have surf equipment, memorabilia and apparel donated from a variety of places to decorate the walls.

I always feel like I am right by the beach. Don’t make the same mistake I did. If you haven’t tried Wahoo’s, it is worth the time to go.

Wahoo’s Fish Taco

ADDRESS: Three locations in Costa Mesa, including South Coast Plaza, and an additional location in Fashion Island.

PHONE: (949) 222-0670

WEBSITE: www.wahoos.com

CUISINE: Mexican

SPECIALTY DISH: Banzai burrito

ALCOHOL SERVED: Beer and wine

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $2.95 to $8.95

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes, separate children’s menu

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: MasterCard and Visa

RATING: ***

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at [email protected] or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.