RESTAURANT REVIEW:

Friendliness at sushi places is usually routine and the sushi chefs most times add to the congenial atmosphere, but Matsu seems to take that up a notch, especially at lunch.

The two chefs that were working the 12-seat sushi bar were Yuki and Yoshi. Yuki has been there much longer than Yoshi and was watching intently as Yoshi worked his magic on dishes like Rainbow rolls and fresh sashimi.

This is a place where locals congregate regularly. Many of the people there know one another, and it seems like Yuki knows them all. Evidence of that was when one woman walked in and Yuki said, “Hi, long time no see,” laughing as he said it. She replied, “Yes, it’s been a whole 24 hours.”

Getting a seat at the sushi bar can be tough, especially at peak hours, but that should not deter diners from going to the restaurant. Even if you aren’t going to get the show at the sushi bar, the rest of the restaurant and bar area is a perfect place to accommodate any fresh fish itch you need scratched.

Besides, if diners sit in the restaurant they will have access to the full menu, which consists of Japanese entrees such as beef and shrimp teriyaki, tempura and combination boats.

My objective, though, was sushi, and from previous visits, I knew I was not going to be disappointed.

The spicy tuna roll is one of the best I have ever had. That is my first order whenever I go there. It is eight pieces of cut roll for $4.25 and not only is it one of the best items they serve, but it’s the best priced.

The generous pieces of tuna are spicier than most places, where the tuna often seems bland. This roll will get your attention and as your nose runs and eyes tear a bit you will wonder why you paid double at other places for a roll that is not nearly as good.

The cuts of fish for the sushi and sashimi are very generous, and I make a point of getting at least two of them whenever I visit.

This visit I ordered yellowtail and salmon sushi.

The sushi is two pieces for $3.30 and they are bigger cuts than most places. The yellowtail was nearly two inches long and a half-inch wide. It was a two-biter, which surprised me because I often can take a piece in one. The quality was excellent, fresh and smooth, there wasn’t a hint of it being chewy.

The salmon was almost identical. A generous cut, though not as big as the yellowtail, it was every bit as fresh and came with orange roe and ponzu sauce drizzled on top. I liked the addition of the sweet sauce. It wasn’t too much and gave the fish a nice additional taste.

In between bites I was bantering with both Yoshi and Yuki and found myself in a conversation about other sushi restaurants with a couple who were sitting to my left. We hit it off, which seems to be a routine occurrence among diners here, and they were telling me I had to try the Sumo roll.

I didn’t see it on the sushi menu, but it is something that Yuki will make for anyone who asks.

The roll consists of tempura shrimp with avocado and green onion inside.

Once it is rolled, tuna is placed on top and eel sauce and sesame seed oil are poured on top.

The tuna on top provides a nice blend of textures with the crunchiness of the tempura shrimp. The sesame seed oil sauce is a little spicy, which balances out the semi-sweetness of the eel sauce.

By the time my meal was over, Yuki knew my name and I have a tentative lunch date with the couple next to me. That is what eating out is all about — an experience.

MATSU

ADDRESS: 18035 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 848-4404

WEBSITE: www.matsusogood.com

CUISINE: Japanese

SPECIALTY DISH: Any of the three gondola dinners

ALCOHOL SERVED: Full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $3.30 to $33

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at [email protected] or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.