RESTAURANT REVIEW:

It was a sad day on the west side of Huntington Beach when Brother’s BBQ folded up its cooker and headed for parts unknown.

The smell of ribs and chicken being slow roasted in the metal contraption outside of Mother’s Bar in Sunset Beach signaled the start of the weekend.

Dan would surf for four days and then put hickory and other types of specialty wood in the cooker on Friday afternoon. Ribs and chicken were then available for anyone brave enough to gingerly negotiate the Harleys parked outside the beer bar all weekend.

But Dan got forced out and moved to Newport Beach. He came back for a bit, taking up residence at Katin Surf Shop, but it wasn’t the same and he retreated, taking his mastery of this cuisine with him.

There has been a barbecue hole on this side of town ever since. Anyone on the west side who wanted quality barbecue had to travel to downtown Huntington Beach and go to Smokin Mo’s.

Well, the owners of two Sunset Beach restaurants, Pelican Isle and Harpoon Harry’s, saw the need and are trying admirably to fill it.

The Front Porch BBQ & Grill will never be able to capture the magic — or the taste — of Brother’s BBQ or other authentic joints, but its attempt is valiant and the result is decent.

It is not an authentic barbecue place by any means; its location in a strip mall disqualifies it from that honor. It is, however, located in a place that is convenient to both Huntington Beach and Sunset Beach residents.

There are two styles of ribs done here: St. Louis and baby back, and they are sent to the restaurant ready to be slow cooked, which the chef does well. The flavor is smoky, but not overdone, and the meat falls off the bone.

What I really liked was that the meat was not slathered in sauce. On the three-item combination plate I got there was a small puddle under the entrée, and there was no hiding the meat, which a lot of places will do with inadequate cooking or meat.

I asked for extra barbecue sauce but really didn’t need it. The meat was so good with just the dab of sauce already provided. I thought for sure the chicken would require it, but no, it was moist and flavorful.

Usually with chicken, especially white meat, the flavor lasts as long as the skin and underneath there can be almost chalk-like poultry.

Not being a voracious beef eater, I picked at the tri tip and liked it, and the brisket was also good.

The pulled pork was really enjoyable. It had a smoky taste to it and was so tender, chewing almost was unnecessary.

The sausage is also an option on the combinations, but we went another route.

We ordered the Cajun andouille and hush puppies, easily the most enjoyable item on the starters’ menu.

The hush puppies are corn meal cooked in a cylinder shape and some gravy was poured on top. The four slices of sausage, which had a kick, were on the side of the bowl.

It was an incredible dish that I would definitely get again on another visit.

Another item I would get again is the Blue Moon beer. It is a hefeweizen, nice and light, and went perfectly with the meal. It is one of three beers they have on tap, the others being Coors Light and Samuel Adams.

This restaurant is not going to remind anyone of a barbecue joint in Texas, but it will satisfy the itch for quality meat, smoked with a little sauce. The atmosphere and the food should keep people happy for some time.

FRONT PORCH BBQ & GRILL

ADDRESS: 4911 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 840-4227

SPECIALTY DISH: St. Louis style ribs

ALCOHOL SERVED: beer and wine

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $5.95 to $22

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

RATING: *** out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.