RESTAURANT REVIEW:

When you pull into the strip mall that houses Le V it is not readily apparent that tranquillity awaits.

But owner Cecilia Mai Huong Le has transformed this corner of the shopping center into an oasis for diners. It is nothing short of spectacular.

The décor is inviting. She closed off the main entrance and directed customers to a garden entrance that is surrounded by bamboo and holds a casual patio area.

The main dining room is elegant and inviting. In the first third of the room is a glass wine display cabinet, and before it is a water curtain with the V logo in the middle. An open kitchen is off to the right, though no sound penetrates into the dining room.

One piece of art that captured my eye immediately was a vintage poster from the rock band The Who. It was the lone decorating contribution from Le’s husband, and it actually blends in with the room. It also reinforces the two philosophies of the restaurant — casual and sophistication.

The food also embodies those two thoughts, which is apparent in the first dish my guests and I eat: mango salad with jumbo grilled shrimp. Mixed with the extremely fresh fruit and well-cooked shrimp were slices of carrots, cabbage, almond slivers and light vinaigrette.

It was so light, which was Le’s goal, to make the mix of the Vietnamese, French, Californian and Japanese foods light and refreshing.

That is why nothing is cooked in heavy sauces or spices. The food is presented with minimal additions.

“If you are eating a steak, you taste the steak,” Le said. “If you are served shrimp, you can taste the shrimp. I only use the best quality, and I want people to be able to taste it.”

The quality was apparent in next dish we tried, the spicy tuna on crispy rice.

The tuna was so fresh, and, combined with the white rice that was pressed and grilled, made for an incredible appetizer.

The next evidence of quality was the escargot de Bourgogne. The snails were perfectly cooked, mixed with a garlic pesto that only added to their quality.

Next was the grilled beef rolls wrapped in La Lop leaf. This mixture of filet mignon and the Vietnamese leaf is good, but what really makes it come alive is the mint available to put in the lettuce wrap.

Our favorite appetizer, though, was the grilled spring lamb chops on blue cheese fondue.

The chops were topped with blue cheese and caramelized onions that added both sweetness and tartness, combined with medium rare lamb.

The appetizers are extensive at the restaurant, and Le provides diners a happy hour menu with many of them on the half-price fare that is offered Tuesday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m.

The escargot, which is normally $8, is $4 during the happy hour, a great deal, especially because the regular appetizer prices were quite reasonable.

Actually, for the quality, I found all the food to be extremely well-priced.

We had the broiled Chilean sea bass, and it was the best example of this fish I have had all year. It was presented with a lemon-beet reduction sauce, golden and red beets, baby squash and zucchini and watercress mashed potatoes.

Another dish that was very well received by our table was the seafood pasta.

This is a total example where Le could have just offered spaghetti and marinara sauce and played it safe. Instead, mixed with the clams, mussels, jumbo shrimp and calamari is spaghettini and a tomato sauce sweetened by caramelized onions.

Our meal was finished nicely with crispy banana flambé and vanilla ice cream, as well as caramelized ginger flan.

I didn’t think it was possible to topple Slow Fish in Huntington Beach as my favorite restaurant, but Le V has done it. This is an establishment that should not be missed. I know I will be going back the next chance I get.

ADDRESS: 17431 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley

PHONE: (714) 593-8511

CUISINE: Asian fusion

SPECIALTY DISH: Chilean sea bass

ALCOHOL SERVED: beer and wine

DRESS: casual to dressy

FAMILY FRIENDLY: not so much

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, Visa, Discover and MasterCard

RATING: *** 1/2 out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants for the Independent.