RESTAURANT REVIEW:

My friend and I were ready for brunching on a recent Sunday but not up for spending a lot of money and eating a lot of food.

We both eschew buffet troughs, and no matter how much crab I put on a plate, it never seems to justify the $42.95 I paid.

Dim sum is another possibility, but we really didn’t feel like fighting the crowds or driving up to Chinatown in Los Angeles.

My friend likes Indian food, and I was game for that. I had heard of Punjab Cuisine of India, and we ventured over there.

They have a buffet special on Sunday, and it was perfect for us. For $8.95, you get a large selection of authentic Indian dishes, and it even comes with a glass of champagne.

When we walked in, the dining room seemed warm. Fortunately there are some permanent tables and benches outside. I liked the look of the restaurant, just not the temperature, so we opted for outside seating.

The waiter was very nice, putting a tablecloth over the table and making it feel like an extension of the restaurant, complete with silverware and small flower centerpiece.

We walked back in and made our first run through the buffet station. The only meat my friend will eat is chicken, and this place is perfect for her because there are many vegetarian dishes.

The saag was my favorite. The spinach dish was pasty, as it should be, and filled with enough spices to make me momentarily forget I was eating spinach.

It was really nice to scoop on the naan, an Indian flatbread cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven. I have always liked the texture of the bread and the restaurant has a variety of styles, including plain or with garlic.

I found several dishes for which the naan came in handy. One was the lamb curry. The lamb was a bit chewy, but the curry was outstanding. Another dish I used the naan to sop up the sauce with was the dal makhini. The lentil beans and rich dark sauce worked well and was well received by my semi-vegetarian friend.

The chicken tikka masala was also good. The boneless chicken breast was mixed with peas and spices, such as garlic and ginger.

My favorite dish of the day was the fish pakoras. The lightly breaded catfish was bite size, and it didn’t even taste deep-fried. It reminded me of little fish nuggets and didn’t need any condiment.

The same oven that cooks the bread also prepares the tandoori chicken and this meal is one of the more popular at Indian restaurants.

The chicken is cooked with a marinade that includes red food coloring. The spices usually mixed with the meat are cumin, coriander, garlic and cinnamon.

This chicken was well prepared, though I have had better. I suspect the quality of the meat is better when it is ordered as a separate entrée.

Most of the dishes gave me that impression, though there was nothing wrong with them, I just thought they would have more flavor.

They would have been be spicier had I requested that. When you have a buffet you are working with a variety of people, it is better to be tame with the food.

The buffet would be a perfect place for someone who is new to the cuisine.

For the more advanced diner, go to dinner and order off the menu. The quality will be better and you can modify the spice level.

This is a good choice in the area for Indian food and should not be missed.

PUNJAB CUISINE OF INDIA

ADDRESS: 18687 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley

PHONE: (714) 963-6777

HOURS: lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner from 5 to 10 p.m.

CUISINE: Indian

SPECIALTY DISH: one of the five chef’s recommendations

ALCOHOL SERVED: beer and wine

DRESS: casual

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

RATING: *** out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.