Great grapes

Chianti. Burgandy. Napa Valley. Paso Robles.

Orange County?

You bet.

Ken Spears is introducing Lagunans to wineries located in or owned by Orange County residents as part of a yearlong wine tasting series at his store, California Taste Fine Wine.

The free first session, 4 p.m. Saturday, will feature the wines of Gershon Bachus Vintners. The newer Temecula Valley winery is owned by Laguna Beach residents, who will be present at the tasting.

The night will also feature a “Spanakopita Smackdown,” where guests will try and vote for the best Greek spinach-and-pita dish as made by Spears or his store manager’s wife.

The event came about when the winery owners stopped into the store as customers.

“I told them that when the time is right, we have to do a tasting,” Spears said.

Later, he came to realize that it would be a great topic for a monthly series.

“I’m stunned at how many wine people there are in South Orange County,” Spears said. “Nobody’s ever done this before. This is a great way to highlight what people do so well locally.”

In addition to the monthly local vintner sessions, California Taste holds weekly wine tastings and wine education classes.

Spears and his wife opened their first wine store in Laguna Niguel in late 2005, following a previous stint owning the Fleur de Lis restaurant in Long Beach.

“We liked the wine part of it better,” Spears said of closing the restaurant. “We had so much wine in collections, both personally and in the restaurant.”

Five weeks after opening the Laguna Niguel store, Spears saw the storefront of his current location available.

“There used to be a wine store here a long time ago,” he said. “I told my wife we should look into opening a second store.”

Spears said there is a notable difference between Laguna Beach and Laguna Niguel palates; the latter are primarily into California wines.

“Laguna Beach has a much more European bent in their taste, especially during the summertime,” Spears said.

“It’s the usual suspects in Laguna Niguel, whereas in Laguna Beach you get to have some fun.”

Each store has a different selection, with a few popular items sharing space in both locations.

“We’re very happy; it’s worked out very well,” he said.

The store also offers “breathable” glasses by German manufacturer Eisch; the glasses are oxygenated, and aerate wine poured into them in less than five minutes, eliminating the need to decant.

The glasses have received critical acclaim from top sommeliers around the world.

Spears also performs champagne sabering at special times; in the practice, which is said to originate from Napoleonic times, the point where the glass lip of the properly chilled bottle and the cork meets is firmly tapped with the edge of a saber.

The glass edge and cork fly off the bottle, spilling little liquid; the pressure inside prevents glass from falling into it.

Spears travels to Europe to search for a great grape.

“I’m always bringing stuff back with me,” he said. “We have a lot of stuff here that no one else in the United States does.”

He tries to become a taste “advocate” for his customers; after learning their tastes, he said he has often told his customers not to buy a particular bottle from his store.

“It’s more important for me to not let them walk out with a bottle of wine than to walk out with something they won’t like,” he said. “Our main goal is to help people define their taste. If you buy a bottle of wine and it sucks, it’s not the wine’s fault. It’s just your own taste.”

His business card reads, “Never buy the wrong bottle of wine ever again.”

California Taste Fine Wine is at 303 Broadway, Suite 103, Laguna Beach.

For more information on the store or to RSVP for an event, call (949) 715-5385 or visit www.vineyardexpress.com.

There are other opportunities to learn about wine in Laguna Beach.

 The Loft Bistro in the Montage Resort & Spa hosts a weekly “Artistry of Wine Tasting Series” from 2 to 4 p.m. The $25-per-person seminar focuses on a different region or varietal each week.

This Sunday, the class will focus on the wines of Tasmania; next weekend, the topic will be the “Rich and Aromatic Whites of Alsace.” On Feb. 10, the sommelier will teach about the earthy taste of the wines of Champagne, Chablis and the Loire.

Reservations are required; call (949) 715-6420 or e-mail montagedining@montage lagunabeach.com.

 Laguna Culinary Arts, 845 Laguna Canyon Road, hosts Thursday wine and cheese tasting events from 5:30 to 7 p.m.; reservations are suggested. January’s focus is Southern Hemisphere wines. In February, the organization will begin offering small plates that can be paired with the wine flights.

The company also hosts Friday happy hours from 5 to 7 p.m., with an enhanced buffet and full glass of wine for $20 per person; each additional glass of wine is $6. Wine tasting events are the last Saturday of every month from 1 to 4 p.m. Eight wines are poured for $5 per person. Upcoming winemaker events include Thompkin Cellars Feb. 6 and Tres Sabores Feb. 27; $85 per person plus tax.

For more information, call (949) 494-0745 or visit www.lagunaculinary arts.com.