Where Javier’s left off

Viva la cocina Mexicana! Javier’s packed its bags, went up north and crossed the border to Newport Coast and then, without a moment’s down time, El Callejon opened in its place. The new owners literally stepped in and took over in a single day, so the décor, dishware and atmosphere will be completely familiar to you since it’s exactly the same. The menu also bears a strong resemblance to the previous one. A traditional Mexican restaurant, it features the expected tacos, enchiladas, tamales, quesadillas etc. as well as chicken, meat and seafood entrées prepared in a variety of sauces.

El Callejon is a family-owned restaurant with branches in Vista, Encinitas and San Antonio. They are most famous for their margaritas, made from scratch. Unfortunately, since we ate there on its opening day, we were not able to taste them as their liquor license hadn’t arrived, but they do have it now!

Considering how expensive rents are downtown, we assume they needed to open as soon as possible in their high-profile location; so, as with all new restaurants, they are still a little rough around the edges but as they are experienced in the business, we are sure the kinks will be worked out very soon. New restaurants in Laguna are few and far between, and we were eager to be the first to review it for you.

The usual chips and salsa were not at all usual; they were actually extremely good. The chips were clearly freshly fried and not a bit greasy, and the two salsas were excellent. The red salsa was, in fact, fresh pico de gallo, not the canned tomatoey sauce that is so prevalent; and the green sauce was irresistible with a hint of sweetness to balance the acid and the perfect touch of heat.

The organization of the menu makes it a little difficult to read, so take the time to look it over carefully. You can find what you want eventually.

For appetizers, you can get guacamole, queso fundido, shrimp cocktail and chicken tacos but you can also try some traditional but less frequently seen choices such as: quesadillas fritas (deep fried) filled with chorizo and potato or chicken and rajas (strips of fresh poblanos in a thick floury cream sauce) or cebollitas Cambray (grilled green onions prepared with lemon and Maggi sauce).

Less usual in a Mexican restaurant altogether is fried calamari served with their light fresh tomato sauce, which also appears on several fish entrées. The calamari were a bit under-seasoned and slightly under-fried — the delicate batter on the rings could have been a little browner. We thought the very fresh sauce needed some salt and heat, both readily available on the table. With a bit of doctoring, it was delicious.

We wanted to try the tortilla soup but sad to say, this one needs work — it was quite greasy. Our very helpful waiter, Danny, didn’t charge us for it.

Much better was the ceviche, although it too was improved by the condiments on the table. The fish was very fresh and not overly marinated but it lacked textural variety — no crunch, easily remedied by the addition of the excellent salsa fresca and a touch of fresh lime. In the end, we ate every last drop.

The one combination plate on the menu allowed us to sample as much of their fare as possible. With four choices of sauces and four kinds of fillings for each of the three items, you have a daunting 24 possible combinations to choose from. The four sauces are green, red, spicy chipotle and red mole. The fillings are chicken, beef, pork or rajas. We came up with a carne asada enchilada in green sauce, a chicken enchilada with mole, a tamale with a chicken mole filling and a chicken taco. High marks for the green sauce and also the mole, which was especially good, slightly sweet, deeply rich in flavor and perfectly spiced. Low marks for the tortillas, which were bland and not even warm. The grilled chicken in the taco was unseasoned as was the shredded chicken in the enchilada. The sauce was served on the side. The masa of the tamale was dry but the chicken filling was permeated with the delicious mole sauce. The accompanying pinto beans were good.

On the other hand, the shrimp entrées are first rate. Eight dishes featuring giant shrimp are on the menu in a variety of sauces and marinades. The most traditional is the al mojo de ajo (sautéed in garlic) but also available are some delectable sounding choices such as: shrimp in mango sauce, cilantro sauce or wrapped in bacon with poblano or chipotle sauce.

Picking the most difficult to pronounce, the camerones zarandeados, we were delighted with the five very large, very juicy crustaceans. They had been marinated in pasilla and guajillo sauce. This marinade is an acquired taste as the chiles can be quite bitter. Try one of the other preparations if you are not familiar with it.

The menu is extensive and includes seven different preparations of chicken breast. In addition to the above-mentioned sauces, there is a gratin in a chile poblano sauce and a flattened, breaded filet Milanese style.

In the meat department, there are steaks, carnitas and surf ’n’ turf with lobster tail or prawns as well as the parrillada for two, a grilled feast with carne asada, carnitas and chicken served with rice, beans, rajas, guacamole and tortillas.

Pescados entrées include four fish choices: snapper, salmon, halibut or sea bass, in the sauces already described or as “make your own” fish tacos with snapper.

There was only one dessert on the night we were there but we were completely satisfied because it was our favorite, a traditional Mexican flan and a very good one at that. Dense, creamy and so well flavored that the caramel on the bottom was no more than a perk rather than a necessity. More dessert selections are promised.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: El Callejon 715-5999

WHERE: 480 S. Coast Hwy

WHEN: 7 days 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

PRICES:

Appetizers: $1.85- $13.25

Entrées: $12-$42

Dessert: $ 5.75

WINE:

Bottles: $16.65-$45

By the glass: $4.75-$11.50

Corkage Fee: $15

ELLE HARROW AND TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at [email protected].