THE GOSSIPING GOURMET:The classics and more at Aliso’s Canyon Lodge

When you see the sign for Aliso Creek Inn and make the turn off Coast Highway, you might be put off by the equipment sheds and chain link fences that line the road until you reach a huge parking lot with a giant putting cage off to the left.

But as you get out of your car and round the corner, you are suddenly dazzled by a spectacular vista, a carpet of green lawn descending down to a little bridge across Aliso “Creek,” framed by the rugged brush-covered hillside beyond. The soft light of the setting sun highlights the gorgeous panorama.

We were welcomed by two young deer, nonchalantly nibbling flowers at the side of the putting green in front of the restaurant. We wondered if they were on the staff. As we stood and watched them, surrounded by the picturesque landscape, we felt a pleasant calm and an instantaneous mood adjustment descend. So, is this why golfers are so addicted to the sport? Or is it the bar?

As we entered the dark lodge-like atmosphere of the lounge area, complete with stone fireplace and some rather puny antlers affixed to the wall, the congenial crowd seemed to be having a fine time, seated in comfortable chairs fashioned from thick tree branches or at tartan upholstered booths.

They were sipping martinis and enjoying selections from the large appetizer menu, which can make a perfect post-golf supper. The main dining room was closed for a large party, so we were seated here at a table by the window where we could admire the last of the sunset.

The décor made Terry feel as if she were back home in the Colorado Rockies, as did the All-American menu with its shrimp cocktail, Cobb salad, steaks, ribs, baked potatoes and cheesecake.

Of course, there are a few updates to bring us out of the mid-century mind-set, like seared, rare peppered ahi with yellow tomato gazpacho or steamed black mussels with spicy saffron broth.

We can never pass up crab cakes and theirs were very unusual in that they seemed to be all crab and a lot of it. The very fresh tasting, lightly seasoned meat was formed into thick cakes, dusted with flour and fried without any discernible crust. The plate was piped with a spicy tomato cream sauce and garnished with micro-cilantro, which gave them needed texture.

There are five entrée-sized salads and the Caesar, spinach and house can be served with chicken or salmon. The Tex-Mex chicken salad has jicama, corn, roasted peppers, black beans and tortilla strips, all tossed with ranch dressing and then drizzled with barbecue sauce. They never served this in Colorado but they certainly would’ve if they’d thought of it.

It would not be amiss to call the Canyon Lodge a steak house since they feature six different cuts and on Fridays and Saturdays, they add prime rib. There is also a rack of lamb, a pork rib chop and barbecue ribs.

If red meat is not your dish, there is an orange chipotle chicken breast, wild salmon, swordfish, the catch of the week and, for a little bit everything, cioppino. For vegetarians there is a cheese ravioli with chipotle cream and spinach, to which you can add chicken or seafood if you like.

We enjoyed the complimentary house salad with its excellent shallot vinaigrette followed by the cioppino and the baby back ribs.

We shared the steamed fresh asparagus and the Portobello mushrooms sautéed in olive oil with a touch of balsamic vinegar, enhancing their earthy flavor. Both portions were generous and flavorful.

The dessert menu too is kind of old-fashioned: apple crisp, cheesecake, bread pudding, chocolate devil’s food cake and chocolate mousse. A few more contemporary additions include crème brulée, Key lime tart and of course, tiramisu.

Our very congenial and helpful waiter suggested the warm bread pudding because it was house-made (as are the crème brulée and apple crisp). We were quite full and bread pudding sounded too heavy but he assured us that this was the dessert to try. Oh, how right he was!

It was surprisingly buttery and light, not as dense and soggy as bread pudding often can be. The top and bottom were crispy and the dessert was drizzled with caramel sauce.

It came with a light custard sauce (crème anglaise) that added another layer of flavor and a scoop of vanilla ice cream that really did nothing more than gild the lily.

The unique location makes Aliso Creek Canyon Lodge a pleasant place for lunch and brunch as well, especially if you get a table on the terrace or by a window.

This Laguna Beach institution has been around since 1958. Formerly known as Ben Brown’s, it is now called Canyon Lodge American Grill and was recently purchased by the Montage Hotel but continues to operate independently.

ELLE HARROW AND TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at [email protected].