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SURFING SOAPBOX: No getting away from Laguna

The sun is here right now, soaring above as it plays hide and go seek among the colorful clouds. The ocean has its own colors with every shade of blue and green that one can imagine.

Laguna seems so far away. Here on this little island — off of the main Tahitian island of Tahiti — all of the modern-world features are lost.

Well, almost.

I awoke this morning at 5 a.m., and loaded my surfboard and a bottle of water onto a little boat for a five-minute boat ride.

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With no one else out except for a friend from this secret island of surf, the two of us laughed and hollered until it was time to go in and have breakfast — hand-picked mangos and bananas with some yogurt.

Yes, the living is easy here.

Swimming, surfing, canoeing and fishing for dinner.

Boy, does time go slow.

Not even the distraction of my cell phone.

Yet with all of the beauty and perfect waves, the palm trees and white beaches — nowhere is like home.

Even here on a tiny island in the middle of nowhere, everyone knows about Laguna Beach. Well, not the native Tahitians, but all those who are out here traveling. Two words — Laguna Beach — and everyone wants to talk about it.

It’s truly classic, when you’re in Tahiti and people are saying how wonderful a town Laguna Beach is.

You know you live in a special place.

Peace.


  • James Pribram is a Laguna Beach native, board member of Clean Water Now, professional surfer and founder of the Aloha School of Surfing. He can be reached at jamo@alohaschool ofsurfing.com.
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