Learning to love the noble thistle

“Eating an artichoke is like getting to know someone really well.”

Willi Hastings

Artichoke season is here again, and many Laguna restaurants are featuring them on their menus. They are appearing everywhere, from high-end to low-end and in many guises. In the simplest and perhaps most delicious form, you can find them whole, steamed with lemon and garlic at Café Zinc. Sorrento Grill has an herb-marinated, wood-grilled version with mustard and Parmesan sauce. Romeo Cucina stuffs them with a mixture of garlic, breadcrumbs, artichoke hearts and tomatoes. The hearts -- those delicate, versatile morsels of happiness -- appear in French 75’s spinach, artichoke and mushroom crepes with chive beurre blanc, Ti Amo’s scallopine carciofi and Romeo Cucina’s filet of salmon in artichoke sauce. Finally, you can find them disguised at Hennessey’s Tavern or the White House in warm spinach-artichoke cream cheese dip served with tortilla chips.

We are always surprised at the number of sophisticated people who have never eaten an artichoke whole. The neophyte nibbler tends to approach the artichoke as an assault vegetable. Without a trusty tutor or an “Artichoke for Idiots” guide book, you are likely to be pricked by its thorny tips, choked by its hairy filaments and frustrated by its leathery leaves. Only after being initiated by the cognoscenti can one luxuriate in the voluptuous pleasures of the noble thistle. Although virtually 100% of artichokes grown in the United States are raised here in California, there are still some timid souls who are still afraid of approaching them.

Here’s how to eat an artichoke. It is considered perfectly proper to pluck the leaves with your fingers. Pull off a leaf, hold it by the cut or pointed end, dip the fleshy, wider end lightly into the sauce (if one is provided), then put this part into your mouth and pull it through your teeth to extract the tiny edible portion. Discard the leaf on the side of your plate. When you get near the center, the leaves are thinner and whiter. Some have a prickly purple tip. You can pull these off in bunches and eat their ends all at once. Finally, you will come to the hairy center, aptly named the choke. Scoop away the fuzzy stuff with a spoon, and, behold, you have the tender heart. So pick up your fork and knife and eat this hidden treasure. You are now an initiate, but still an uninformed one.

Let us give you some background. Artichokes are one of he oldest foods known to humans. The ancient Greeks and Romans considered them a delicacy and an aphrodisiac. In fact, in the 16th century, artichoke eating was reserved only for men. Women were denied the pleasure, because it was thought to enhance sexual power. Is it then any surprise that Marilyn Monroe was the first official California Artichoke Queen in 1949?

Outside of California, artichokes are cultivated in France, Italy and Spain, where they grow many different types. There is a wonderful Roman variety with tender leaves that can be eaten completely. The famous preparation for these is called carciofi alla giudia, in which the whole artichoke is deep-fried until tender and then pressed open and fried again until the outer leaves are brown and crispy. They are indescribably delicious. Sadly, for unknown reasons, they are not grown here.

We produce the globe artichoke, which generally grows in three sizes determined by their location on the plant, the bigger ones growing on top. Castroville, Calif., claims to be the artichoke capital of the world. It has the ideal foggy climate that cools the plants at night, providing the perfect ambience for keeping the plants happy. They are available 12 months of the year, but their peak seasons are spring and fall. The highways are lined with stands, selling them by the crate. There is even a restaurant shaped like a giant artichoke that serves the mighty thistle in a hundred different ways, mostly fried.

The buds of this prickly plant, if left unpicked, turn into beautiful violet flowers. Interestingly, artichokes contain cynarin, a substance that makes many people detect only sweetness in foods consumed immediately after them, so it is not a good idea to pair them with wine. They might turn your Cabernet Sauvignon into ManischewitzCgrape.

The cynarin in the artichoke leaf stimulates liver function and helps in digestion. The inclusion of artichokes in the diet is commonly recommended as a dietary adjunct for people who have hepatitis. Good news! One large one has only 25 calories and is loaded with potassium. What a bargain!

. The whole point of artichokes is that they offer up their pleasures slowly. It can be said that they are an object lesson in delayed gratification.

STEAMED ARTICHOKES

Never use aluminum or cast-iron pots. They will turn the artichokes black.

Serves 4

4 medium artichokes

1/2 lemon

1 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon vinegar: white, red or balsamic

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups water

1. Lay each artichoke on its side and, with a sharp knife, chop off the top third; or if you want to take the time, or you can snip off the top of all the leaves individually and cut off stems so that the bottom is flat.

2. Rub the cut surfaces with half a lemon.

3. Put lemon, water, salt and vinegar in a 2-quart pot.

4. Fit artichokes into pot side by side in one layer, stem side down; tight fit is fine.

5. Pour olive oil evenly over artichokes. Cover and boil for 25 minutes. If you are using large artichokes, you will need 1 tablespoon of olive oil per artichoke, and boiling time is 35 to 45 minutes. Artichokes are done when you can pull out a leaf easily.

6. To serve, remove from pot. Serve hot or cold, with or without sauce.

ARTICHOKE SAUCES FOR DIPPING

DILL SAUCE

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream or yogurt

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped dill

Whisk all ingredients together until well blended.

GARLIC BUTTER

1 stick of salted butter or sweet butter with 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cloves garlic, crushed

Melt butter and garlic in microwave for 1 1/2 minutes.

STUFFED ARTICHOKES

4 medium artichokes

1/2 lemon

1 cup bread crumbs or stale French or Italian bread processed to make 1 cup

1 pre-cooked Italian sausage (chicken or pork)

2 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons well-dried Italian parsley, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated

2 teaspoons plus 3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Chicken broth to a depth of one inch in baking dish (about 2 cups)

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Trim as described above. Rub cut surfaces with lemon.

3. In food processor, chop bread and measure out one cup. Discard remainder. Return bread or breadcrumbs to processor with sausage, garlic, parsley and Parmesan. Process until finely chopped. Add 2 teaspoons of oil and blend briefly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Loosen leaves, remove choke if desired. Stuff as much mixture as you can between the leaves and in the center. It won’t look perfect. Some stuffing will fall off. Don’t worry about it.

Place artichokes in a baking pan that will hold them close together. Pour chicken broth carefully into bottom of pan.

Drizzle remaining 3 tablespoons oil over artichokes and bake for one hour. Baste twice during first half hour.

* Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz owned A La Carte gourmet takeout and catering for 20 years in Laguna Beach where they live. They can be contacted by e-mail at [email protected]

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