A jewel in the crown

I admit to being a novice when it comes to Indian food. Growing up in

Southern California, I was exposed to more tacos than tikka. In order

to put together an Indian cooking class, I began to explore the vast

array of dishes that comprise the Indian table. One thing I’ve found

is that the work involved in preparing the simplest of recipes can be

considerable.

The spice cupboard alone is mind-boggling, and most items are not

easily found on grocery store shelves. The techniques for even simple

dishes involve many steps, and are daunting for someone not raised at

an Indian grandmother’s knee. So my advice to most people is to

explore Indian food in restaurants before attempting to prepare it.

One local arena for this taste-testing is India’s Flavor in

Glendale. This tiny, family-run restaurant is tucked into a corner of

a strip mall on Verdugo Road, and boasts, at most, eight white-cloth

covered tables. A lengthy menu offers a mind-boggling assortment of

dishes.

A good way to dive into Indian food is with an assortment of

“chaat” or snacks. Just like with Spanish tapas, this is a fun way to

share nibbles of many different dishes. Several samosas are offered,

filled with vegetables or meat. These golden pyramidal pastries are

crisp-fried to deep gold, and encase subtly spiced fillings ($3.50

for two large vegetable samosas, $4.50 for meat).

Pakoras are fritters made with a chickpea flour batter, and have a

nearly orange coloring, from turmeric and chile powder. Several

fillings are available, including shrimp, vegetable or chicken.

Paneer pakora is the Indian version of cheese sticks, with a mild

homemade cheese inside ($2.95 to $5.50).

One of my favorite chaats is the onion bhaji -- a beautiful clump

of deep-fried, battered onion threads.

Dipped into a yogurt-based raita, these are a fragrant, crispy

treat (Bhaji, $2.95, Raita $1.50).

Naan is my new favorite bread, and garlic naan is my favorite

favorite. A slipper-shaped flat bread, baked on a smoking hot tandoor

oven and studded with lots of glorious garlic, this is addictive

stuff ($2). But don’t skip the puris, sort of pita-like puffs of

whole-wheat dough. Any of the breads make a great base for piling on

some of the chutneys or cachumber, a chopped vegetable salad.

If you want more than snacks, move on to one of the many curries,

tandoor-oven roasted meats, or choose one of many vegetarian entrees.

Paired with a fragrant basmati rice dish, any one of these will

afford you enough food for a feast, at a pauper’s price.

Meat dishes range from $13.95 to $17.95, basmati-rice dishes $2.50

to $12.95. Try one of the alluring beverages, scented with rosewater

or mango or cardamom, for an exotic sip of India.

Kudos: Friendly family-run spot with traditionally prepared menu

of dishes.

Quibbles: Decor is spare and dining room can be close quarters on

busy nights.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: India’s Flavor

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through

Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 5 to 10 p.m.

Sunday

WHERE: 3303 N. Verdugo Road, Glendale

COST: $6.95 to $17.95

PHONE: (818) 957-5500

* CHERIE MERCER TWOHY teaches cooking in La Canada Flintridge. She

can be reached at www.chezcherie.com.