Taco Tuesday never tasted so good

A grueling trip to Yosemite -- punctuated by an overly ambitious,

ill-fated attempt to climb the torturously steep Half Dome (what was

I thinking?) -- had me longing for the comforts of Huntington Beach.

I couldn’t stomach another clump of oats and soybeans masquerading

as lunch or another sip of warm water from a Camelbak.

I needed -- I craved -- zesty tacos and cold cerveza. With that in

mind, I headed downtown to reacquaint myself with city life -- an

outdoorsman I’m not -- and partake in a trio of Tuesday night taco

specials.

My first stop was Pancho Villa’s Grill and Cantina, located on the

second floor at Main and Walnut. They were offering three shredded

tacos, chicken or beef, plus your choice of margarita or beer, for

only $5.

Although my initial step upstairs triggered a Half Dome flashback,

and my freshly sore legs pleaded with me to go elsewhere, I pushed

pain aside and courageously trekked on, knowing I would be justly

rewarded with a cold cerveza upon reaching the apex.

At the summit, I dragged myself to the nearest barstool and reaped

my reward -- a cold Pancho Villa lager. Brewed by Firestone, this

slightly amber cerveza with a wedge of lime fully hydrated this

hiker. As I sat basking in the glory of my accomplishment, I realized

the brick, stucco and iron interior nicely mimics a turn of the

century hacienda and that there’s a wraparound balcony for dining

alfresco.

The affable bartender, sensing my need for nourishment, set me up

with chips and a thirst-making, chunky salsa, while I waited on my

tacos. The shredded beef and chicken tacos came with large chunks of

tomato, soothing cheese and even some sliced peppers.

I usually avoid shredded tacos like the Dodgers avoid victories,

but I found these exceeded my expectations.

Pancho Villa’s was only sparsely crowded, but Fred’s Mexican Cafe

was packed with revelers. As I stood in line at the congested

entrance, surveying the masses, I began to doubt whether or not I’d

be granted entry. My shorts were pulled up to my waist, and I have no

visible tattoos or body piercings, but I was doubting.

Not willing to chance it -- I made a mad dash for the lone empty

barstool when the hostess turned her back.

Now safely ensconced at the bar, I was greeted with a basket of

warm, salty chips and cup of smooth, zippy salsa. Fred’s taco Tuesday

offerings include $2 chicken or carnitas and $3 steak or shrimp

tacos, as well as $5.25 bottles of Corona and Tecate -- 24-ounces and

32-ounces, respectively.

My shrimp taco had above-average-sized shrimp mixed in a milky

sauce and buried under a heap of cabbage. I was surprised to find my

carnitas taco was also cloaked in cabbage, not the usual lettuce.

While there was an abundance of pork, portions of it were too

blubbery for my liking.

Both tacos, each on a flour tortilla and topped with pico de

gallo, were mediocre.

The last stop on my taco odyssey was Duke’s, a place where I’ve

relished many a halibut dinner while seated outside on the ocean-view

deck. Crashing waves and moonlit waters provide the ultimate

ambience. I even own a Duke’s T-shirt, although I rarely wear it

because it tends to accentuate the midsection.

I’d never, however, set foot in Duke’s “Barefoot Bar,” where on

Tuesday nights they offer $2 fish tacos and $6 buckets of Coronitas.

Wrapped in a flour tortilla and sitting atop shredded cabbage and

a tangy tomatillo white sauce, Duke’s uses solid, sufficiently sized

pieces of mahi mahi that come grilled or beer battered. If both

versions weren’t so sensational, I’d have been hard pressed to down

my sixth and seventh tacos of the evening. They made it easy to make

a pig of myself.

My pleasurable -- not to mention affordable -- journey through

taco Tuesday madness helped ease the pain of Yosemite.

* JOHN VOLO is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail him at [email protected].

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