The glories of Greece

We stood by a stone marking the center of the universe, the

surrounding hills forming a magnificent natural amphitheater facing

the Gulf of Corinth.

This was Delphi, home of the oracle and center of the ancient

world. I was with my wife, Tita, and our friends, Theo and Matina.

Greece is steeped in history. We had just driven through

Thermopylae, where, in 480 BC, King Leonidas and 300 Spartans were

slaughtered while trying to hold off 10,000 invading Persians.

On a one-day boat trip to three nearby islands, we passed close to

the Strait of Salamis, where Xerxes’ Persian fleet was finally

defeated, putting an end to the Persian invasion.

These sites had special interest for us: Tita is Persian, while

Theo and Matina are Greek.

We sailed from Athens’ port of Piraeus in a mid-size passenger

boat to Mykonos, the famous travel-poster island of white buildings,

bougainvilleas and blue sea -- an accurate picture, as it happens.

After two nights there, we sailed to the island of Santorini, a

partially submerged, tilted volcano rim. The island’s hotels atop the

rim face west, and the evening sun reflected on the mirrored surface

of the sheltered waters created a golden luminosity.

After a brief rest in Athens, we drove to Olympia in Peloponnese,

a large landmass connected to mainland Greece by a narrow neck of

land. Greek warriors would haul their vessels across this mile-wide

isthmus to avoid a 500-mile detour, but a deeply cut canal now allows

ships through.

We passed through Corinth -- where the Apostle Paul preached --

and the port of Patras, present-day gateway to Greece.

Olympia itself is a small town with world-famous visitor sites:

temple ruins, extraordinarily natural-looking statues, the stadium

for games and races, a superb modern museum displaying ancient

clothing, artifacts, the bronze helmet of King Leonidas, and the

parabolic mirror with which the Olympic torch is lighted by the sun.

Athens’ crowded, choking, and chaotic streets reminded me of

Mexico City. They reminded Tita of Tehran. Standing over the city is

the Acropolis with its temples, including the photogenic Parthenon.

To the south are pebble beaches and to the north a lush

countryside with rolling hills and olive groves.

There are numerous islands, each with its distinct character of

land, flora and architecture. Island hopping is easy -- shipping

times are posted at the ports, where you can buy tickets for ships

that are constantly coming and going, transporting workers,

backpackers, vehicles and spare parts.

Greek food is great and varied. In June and July -- the best

months -- dinner begins around 9 p.m., after siesta. People are

friendly, and credit cards are widely accepted.

One wonders whether the ancients were aware of the natural beauty

surrounding them as they farmed, fought, sailed and lived their

lives. But you will be, and if connecting with the past excites you,

there can be no better destination.

* TOM MOULSON is a Corona del Mar resident.

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