Sage on the Coast a hot spot to dine

Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz

As we pulled into the parking lot of Sage on the Coast in Crystal

Cove at the Trader Joe’s shopping center, we were surrounded by four

Mercedes Benzes, three BMWs, two Lexus RXs, one Maserati and a

vintage topless MG. Obviously, this is the hot new spot to dine --

the second venture of chef and owner Rich Mead, whose original

restaurant is Sage in Eastbluff.

Walking toward the very attractive contemporary stucco and wood

structure, we were impressed by the large olive trees and lovely

landscaping in soft shades of sage. It’s hard to believe we are in a

strip mall.

We had reservations in the large airy main dining room, which is

also decorated in a palette of green tones accented with chocolate

wood. Along one wall is the bar, where you can also order food. As we

sat down, we realized that even though it was early, it was already

quite noisy. Since it was a beautiful, warm, summer night, we asked

if we could be seated out on the patio.

We were graciously accommodated. We enjoyed the charming garden at

one end and the cozy fireplace at the other. If you have a choice,

and if it is not freezing cold, sit outside. It’s just so nice out

there. A basket of warm bread and Parmesan wafers arrived as soon as

we were seated and the very pleasant but non-intrusive waitress

immediately opened the wine we had brought.

The menu offers an interesting choice of dining possibilities

prepared by chef Kris Kirk. You can compose a meal that ranges from a

variety of small tastes to a multi-coursed expense account-type

dinner. There are soups and appetizers, green plates, small plates,

big plates, side dishes, a cheese selection and desserts.

We began with an interesting take on tortilla soup. Rather than

the usual chicken broth, it was a puree with subtle hints of corn and

beans. The refreshingly chilled gazpacho was one of the best we had

ever tasted with its assertive garlic flavor and garnish of fresh

crab and sliced avocado. The flavors married perfectly. The crispy

ahi spring rolls are so well seasoned that they hardly needed their

dipping sauce.

The grilled Asian barbecued beef short ribs could be paired with a

salad for a light meal as could the pulled barbecue pork and corn

crepes. The only disappointment were the crab cakes -- too much

bread, not enough crab, though the corn salad that accompanies them

is very tasty.

The standout among the green plates is the gorgonzola and Granny

Smith apple salad with candied pecans.

The small plates are really almost entree size but do not come

with any accompaniments. Most delicious were the seared sea scallops,

very crisp on the outside and tender and moist inside. The

heart-healthy miso-glazed butterfish in a light miso-flavored broth

is accompanied by a seafood dumpling. The fish itself has a buttery

flavor and delicate texture.

The big plates come with a variety of interesting fixings. Fish

fanciers should try the popular panko-crusted Alaskan halibut with

Asian vegetables or the roasted wild king salmon with heirloom tomato

and garlic risotto.

You can’t go wrong with the excellent grilled prime natural

ribeye. There is also the ubiquitous roast chicken.

We were delighted by the roasted duck breast which we ordered

blasted on the outside and very rare on the inside the way it is

prepared in France. It was served with fingerling potatoes that

soaked up the delectable juices and a grilled peach half that

provided a sweet contrast to the duck meat.

We must mention the marvelous roasted cauliflower from the side

dishes. Baked with a delicate bread crumb crust with a hint of

cheese, it was served with a so-called anchovy sauce that was

meltingly creamy, but it only had a passing acquaintance with an

anchovy.

From the cheese selection we would like to recommend the p’tite

basque, a mild sheep cheese that is relatively new to Southern

California.

If you have planned your meal wisely, you will have room for

dessert. Chocolate lovers rejoice. The warm chocolate truffle cake is

to die for -- oozing chocolate, swimming in chocolate, it’s the

quintessential chocolate dessert. Less successful is the peach tarte

tatin with caramel sauce, mint syrup and ginger ice cream -- too

many competing flavors and too little peach. Hit and miss is the plum

and berry cobbler. The pastry chef, Lisa Kirk has creatively combined

berries with plums, a felicitous combination, but the cobbler bottom,

a soggy biscuit that was probably meant to soak up the irresistible

juices, doesn’t work.

The wine list ranges from $8 to $200 and features a nice selection

of wine by the glass.

There is a $20 corkage fee.

* Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz owned A La Carte/ Take Away

Gourmet, a restaurant and catering business for 20 years in Laguna

Beach, where they live. They can be reached via email at

[email protected].