Market offers best of best

Greer Wylder

Promelis weeds out all of the bulk and unglamorous groceries and

concentrates on hard-to-find gourmet products and the best of the

best in produce, meats and cooked meals.

You can find pure Irish butter, farm-fresh creme fraiche made in

Atascadero, pink salt from the Himalayas, local ripe strawberries and

Dr. Bob’s handcrafted ice cream made with Scharffen Berger chocolate.

Shoppers too busy to cook stop in for “fabulous, prepackaged,

grab-and-go, heat-and-eat meals,” owner R.J. McNerney said.

McNerney spent 30 years as a wholesale meat distributor, selling

fine meats to butcher shops and specialty markets in Orange and Los

Angeles counties. While servicing markets, he gathered and

accumulated ideas and then designed his ideal store -- combining his

expertise in the meat business with the freshest produce, seafood,

deli foods, cheese, wine and prepared foods.

Six years later, Promelis Market is a neighborhood favorite in

Newport Beach, near the corner of East 17th Street and Irvine Avenue

on Westcliff Drive.

“We have a tough clientele; they were hard to gain, and now

they’re hard to take away,” McNerney said. “They know what they want,

and they depend on us for quality and friendly help.”

Due to recent construction in the center, business has suffered

for the past six months. McNerney said he’s looking forward to the

project’s completion and thanked his loyal customers.

The old-fashioned market even offers house accounts where clients

are billed once or twice a month. That way, children can come in

after school and get lunch, with their parents’ permission.

And McNerney’s a community supporter.

“Customers approach me to sponsor events that are near and dear to

their hearts,” McNerney said. “I can’t turn them away. People

remember. And I like to support schools.”

McNerney said it’s not just the consistently available boutique

products that make the market special. The market’s selection

includes Stonewall Kitchen jams and pancake mixes from Maine,

Tulocay’s marinades and dips from Napa Valley and Emmi’s Swiss

yogurt.

Not surprisingly, their high-grade meats go above and beyond

expectations.

“We are a state-inspected meat-processing facility,” McNerney

said. “We’re governed by the Department of Agriculture, so we deal

with more scrutiny than other markets.”

McNerney said the certification allows Promelis more latitude to

specialize in meats that most markets can’t offer. They cure and

smoke bacon, hams and jerky. Beef is hand-selected, USDA-certified,

and antibiotic- and hormone-free.

Shoppers can choose from a selection that includes ground sirloin

($5.99 a pound), filet mignon ($29.99 a pound), beef rib Spencer

steak ($17.99 a pound), rack of lamb ($26.99 a pound), pork loin

tenderloin ($6.99 a pound), pork loin back ribs ($7.99 a pound) and

whole frying chickens ($1.79 a pound).

Fresh seafood arrives daily, including wild salmon ($16.99 a

pound), Chilean sea bass ($17.99 a pound), ahi ($14.99 a pound) and

scallops ($14.99 a pound).

The deli’s food is made with the same high-quality meats sold at

the meat counter. The deli serves the best roasted chicken of any

market; it’s marinated for a day-and-a-half in a soy sauce and brown

sugar mixture, or a lemon herb blend ($8.99).

The deli also makes great sandwiches, with choices of meats,

lettuce, tomato and breads ($4.95), and prepared foods, such as baby

back ribs ($9.99 a pound), baked eggplant with angel hair pasta and

mozzarella ($7.99 a pound), poached salmon ($18.99 a pound) and

roasted pork loin ($9.99 a pound).

The fabulous banana bread is freshly baked. And customers love the

homemade croutons; the seven-layer dip with layers of guacamole,

refried beans, sour cream, fresh tomatoes, cheddar, cilantro and

green onions ($7.49 a pound); and the red-pepper hummus ($3.23 a

pound).

Prepackaged to-go meals include smoked chicken (6.99 a pound);

beef stroganoff ($9.99 a pound); macaroni and cheese ($3.99 a pound);

striped jumbo ravioli filled with ricotta, mascarpone and herbs

($13.99 a pound); and Shepherd’s pie ($5.99).

The European-style market has some touches of Tuscany, complete

with exposed ceiling, reproduction lighting and a green-and-ivory

striped awning over the deli. Its size -- just 6,000 square feet --

is ideal for attentive customer service.

“The majority of our employees have been here since the day we

opened,” McNerney said. “The store is staffed well, and service is

very important. We’re like a family. We all get along, and I think it

gives a nice feeling and atmosphere.”

Promelis also offers party platters and full-service catering.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.