Experience a little island time close to home

CATHARINE COOPER

“Island time,” crows James, from the patio of Two Harbors Bar and

Restaurant, as he kicks down a “Buffalo Milk” -- the signature drink

of this Catalina establishment -- and relaxes with his wife, Lynn.

Six of us, including Emma, Mike, Steve and I, chatter about our

weekend getaway, while we wait for the Catalina Express to ferry us

back to the mainland. It’s hard to argue James’ proclamation as we

watch palms and colorful flowers sway in a warm and gentle breeze.

The slopes of the island are covered in a deep emerald green, more

like tropical locations such as Hawaii, than this historically brown

desert island.

Millions of years ago, Catalina was formed by volcanic activity

beneath the ocean floor that created a rugged, barren piece of land

surrounded by the Pacific. Early colonizers arrived by chance, blown

by the wind or drifted to shore on small waves. Today, the craggy

mountains, shallow valleys and steep cliff faces are home to a unique

variety of native trees, shrubs, wildflowers, mammals, insects, birds

and other forms of life.

The trip, which began on a dinner whim, manifested into a richly

rewarding close-to-home vacation. Thanks to the Internet for its

rapid dispensing of information, and Lynn’s focused follow-through,

reservations for both transport to and from, as well as campsites

while there, were secured.

An early boarding at San Pedro (the only direct ferry to the

isthmus) set the stage. We breakfasted on James’ famous

raspberry-orange scones, freshly baked the night before, and sipped

hot coffee. Mike organized luggage and secured our place in line.

The trip over was a bit more than we bargained for: six to seven

foot seas and waves broke over the top of Catalina Express. While

most passengers fled for cover, I relished the opportunity to be with

the elements. Wind whipped my face, water splashed my body, and my

laughter was infectious. An accompanying deck passenger remarked that

I was having “too much fun.” I agreed.

There are five campgrounds on Catalina Island. Each has a unique

location, different facilities and transportation logistics. Two

Harbors, our selected one night “home,” sits on a bluff overlooking

the harbor at Isthmus Cove. It’s a short 1/4-mile walk from the

pier, and if desired, the ranger will deliver your gear to your

campsite. There is running water, rinse-off showers, chemical

toilets, barbecues, picnic tables, fire pits and sunshade. Rangers

will sell and deliver propane (not allowed on the ferry), charcoal

and firewood. Town offers a restaurant and bar, general store, snack

bar, coin-op hot showers and a rental shop for kayaks, bicycles and

snorkeling gear.

After setting up camp on Saturday, wandering was the call for the

afternoon. Steve and I ventured north, following West End Road along

the shoreline to visit Cherry and Fourth of July coves. The bulk of

the moorings were empty, as was the town, on this early April

weekend. The quiet was a welcome respite from the construction

commotion in Laguna. We finished our exploration by hiking to the

west side of the island. There, a viewpoint bench provides a

spectacular vista. San Clemente Island loomed huge on the horizon.

Sunday morning, after a hearty breakfast in town, we purchased

return bus tickets, and set off for Little Harbor, a hike of about 6

1/2 miles. Climbing away from Isthmus Cove on the Banning Trail, the

town grew ever smaller while the green of the hills laid out before

us like a welcome carpet. Wildflowers continued their bloom -- Indian

paintbrush, mariposa daisies, coreopsus, lupine and more. Bees plied

their trade while mockingbirds, wrens, sparrows and jays flittered

from tree to tree. I searched fruitlessly for buffalo and Catalina

fox.

On top of the ridge, a vigorous climb, we were rewarded with a

view to the north end of the island, wrapped on both sides by the

blue of the Pacific. Two lakes, certainly a surprise to me, filled in

narrow valleys as we headed down the mountain toward Little Harbor.

As soon as we arrived on the beach, boots came off, lunch came out

and we settled to the peaceful rhythm of the surf. A serious hunt for

sea glass and cast off treasures yielded plenty of bounty --

gold-like stones shimmered like coins in the wet sand and teased us

with dreams of excess. On the bus ride back (recommended) we finally

spotted a lone buffalo chewing tall grass near a deep pond.

The horn from the ferry shakes us from our reverie. We grab our

packs and lineup for boarding. The return journey is via Avalon,

which means we are treated to a sunset cruise along the island’s

length. Green cliff faces, tiny coves and bobbing sailboats fill the

picture. As we turn toward the lights of the mainland, hundreds of

dolphin from all compass points, arc and dive, swimming toward our

ship.

The gold orb of sunlight settles into the sea, just before we

cross the breakwater. Island time, for sure.

* CATHARINE COOPER can be reached at 949-497-5081 or

[email protected].