Skosh fits its niche in Costa Mesa

Greer Wylder

At 5 feet 2, Gary Monahan is one of Costa Mesa’s most towering

figures. A father of six, Monahan assists in youth sports, has served

on the City Council for the past 11 years and operates one of the

city’s most popular restaurants.

He opened Skosh Monahan’s on Newport Boulevard five years ago.

Skosh comes from a Japanese term for “a little bit” and is Monahan’s

nickname.

The restaurant is the culmination of two decades spent in the

restaurant industry. Monahan started as a chef at Denny’s and went on

to manage two restaurant legends in Newport-Mesa: Sid’s Steakhouse on

Old Newport Boulevard and the Goat Hill Tavern in Costa Mesa.

Monahan’s stint at the Goat Hill Tavern led to his involvement in

city politics. Frustrated with what he thought was the city’s

harassment of a popular business, Monahan decided to run for council

to make changes.

His Irish-flavored restaurant and pub reflects Monahan’s

expertise, creative flavor and feel for the community. For instance,

each day the restaurant offers a different special.

The most popular is on Sunday, when children under 12 eat for

free. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, it’s wine night -- 20% off on all

bottles.

Special prices on weekday dinners include beef stroganoff ($5) on

Mondays; two tacos with steak or chicken ($5) on Tuesdays; Irish lamb

stew or corned beef and cabbage ($7.50) on Wednesdays; and fish and

chips ($7.50) on Thursdays.

Happy hour lasts from 4 to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday, with $2

off appetizer pizzas.

Customers feel at home in Monahan’s restaurant. It’s a dark

Irish-themed tavern with sporting events playing on TV screens that

can be seen from nearly every seat. From the moment it opened,

customers pinned dollar bills on the ceiling, a good luck ritual

patterned after a Catalina Island bar. Donated sports hats from

guests’ favorite teams decorate the ceiling as well.

Monahan’s is more than just a friendly place with fun daily

specials, its owner says.

“My steaks can rival Morton’s any day of the week,” he said.

He’s right. There are seven steak choices, each cut and aged,

hand-prepared and grilled to order.

The pepper-seared New York strip is the most popular. It is a

12-ounce steak smothered in gorgonzola and red wine sauce with garlic

mashed potatoes and asparagus ($21.95).

A 10-ounce filet quickly went from a weekly special to a regular

menu item. It’s served bacon-wrapped in a caramelized shallot sauce

over garlic mashed potatoes and vegetables ($26.95).

The delicious lamb dishes include the hard-to-find lamb culotte

steak, a sirloin in a cabernet sauce ($16.50); a traditional rack of

lamb with fresh rosemary in a merlot reduction sauce ($21.50); and

the home-style Irish lamb stew ($9.50).

Regulars are addicted to the grilled artichoke appetizer served

with steak fries and spicy aioli sauce ($6.95), and the filling Irish

nachos, steak fries covered in bacon, melted cheese, and jalapeno --

apparently an uncredited Irish pepper ($8.95).

Monahan credits the success of his restaurant to his staff, which

includes executive chef Miguel Santiago, formerly of Jack Rose in

Long Beach, and chefs Juanito Cantoran and Francisco Castro.

For an Irish pub, Skosh Monahan’s has an extensive wine list,

thanks to Michelle Mauro, the beverage manager and wine sommelier.

Something else makes Monahan’s special. It offers a GFCF menu

designed for autistic children. The gluten free (wheat, rye, barley,

and oat flours) and casein free (milk proteins) diet is believed to

ease autistic symptoms. The menu includes smoked bacon sausage, a hot

dog, a mini New York steak, a barbecued chicken breast, and a pizza

made with soy cheese ($5.50). Each is served with a choice of grilled

red onions, jasmine rice or steak fries.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.