Still serving sushi after all these years

Greer Wylder

When Oosio opened 28 years ago, it stood out as one of the first

restaurants to introduce Japanese cuisine to Costa Mesa. Now that

sushi is about as ubiquitous here as it is in Tokyo, Ooiso is no

longer a novelty. Yet it still stands out as a favorite neighborhood

restaurant that specializes in fresh Japanese foods.

Ooiso has a loyal group of regulars, who rely on its quality

seafood and the expertly crafted dishes by Juro Miyazaki, a 25-year

veteran sushi chef.

Ooiso’s specialty is fresh seafood, which diners often order as

take-out, since the restaurant seats only 20 people. Miyazaki broils

fantastic yellow tail cheek with ponzu sauce ($7.95); rich and sweet

butterfish is grilled and marinated with miso and sake ($6.50); and

there are baked slightly sweet green mussels ($6). And for wasabi

lovers, Ooiso has three varieties of the fiery condiment. There is an

oil of wasabi extracted from wasabi, fresh chopped wasabi and the

most common powder form.

Ooiso’s sizeable menu includes bento boxes, bowls, appetizers,

salads, soups, as well as sushi bar creations. Guests sitting at the

sushi bar can request omakase, a tradition in which the chef will

prepare dishes not found on the menu. Miyazaki also accommodates

special orders; he tries to be as flexible as he can.

The bento boxes, visually appealing arrangements of dishes

presented in a lacquered wooden box, include stir-fried beef

sukiyaki, shrimp and vegetable tempura, crispy sesame chicken, sweet

sunomono, breaded crab claw, dumpling and rice ($14.50); and a

combination of tender tuna, yellowtail and octopus sashimi with

shrimp and vegetable tempura, grilled wild salmon, sesame chicken,

sunomono, crab claw, dumpling and rice ($19).

Bowls make perfect lunches and dinners. Ooiso offers chicken, beef

teriyaki and salmon, or a vegetarian bowl served over rice ($6.50 to

$7.50). And there are also sushi bowls, all of the ingredients from a

roll served instead in a bowl. The California bowl has real crab

meat, avocado and sliced cucumber on top of sushi rice ($8.40); and a

seafood bowl has thinly sliced tuna, yellow tail, salmon, octopus,

shrimp and white fish on top of sushi rice ($12.95). Other bowls

include thick udon noodle bowls, including shrimp tempura on top of

noodle soup ($7); and spicy udon with shrimp, scallops and chicken

served over a spicy broth ($8).

Kids meals come with tempura, California roll, chicken teriyaki,

soup, salad and rice ($7.50).

Drink choices include soft drinks, or beer, sake and plum wine.

After nearly 30 years of business, Ooiso continues to be a popular

Costa Mesa dining attraction -- a place to find casual, affordable

and quality sushi.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.