Cuisine and moonbeams shine at Newport eatery

Greer Wylder

It’s Valentine’s Day weekend, and now is a great time to take your

special someone to Newport’s most romantic restaurant on the water,

Le Quai (pronounced “le-kay”) in the Cannery Village. The intimate al

fresco restaurant has just 12 tables, each with bay views. Moonbeams

shine through the transparent cathedral ceiling; romantic lights

suspend from the awnings; lovely fresh flowers float in vases. Le

Quai’s fine wines and French-inspired cuisine are married here. Cupid

and gourmets would approve.

Le Quai opened two years ago, a natural progression for owners

Dennis and Chris Overstreet, who are both wine purveyors and now

restaurateurs. Dennis opened The Wine Merchant 33 years ago in

Beverly Hills, and became known as the wine merchant to the stars.

Wine Spectator listed Dennis as one of the most important people in

the wine industry.

Their second location, Overstreet’s Bar and Wine Merchant, debuted

in the Lido Village three years ago. The couple share

responsibilities and decision-making at each location. Yet Chris

mostly operates the wine bar and restaurant in Newport, while Dennis

runs the Beverly Hills store. “Dennis is the entertainer, the

creative one,” Chris says. “[His] infectious enthusiasm for wine is

unmatched.”

The inspiration for Le Quai came from a waterfront restaurant that

Dennis and Chris fell in love with while vacationing in the south of

France. “It was much more informal and casual, but it had the dock,

the ambience,” Chris says, “And like Le Quai, in a stressful moment,

you could watch a peaceful boat go by.”

With its location and ambience, Le Quai can’t be compared to other

restaurants. “It’s just that we’re completely unique, not better.

It’s a whole experience,” Chris says. “The water, the view, the wine,

the food, it’s relaxing. Most people take two hours to dine here.”

The favorite part of her day is watching people enjoying

themselves. “It’s the sum of all parts, when the lighting is right,

the foods, the wine,” Chris says. “It’s the same as entertaining at

home. I love arranging flowers, choosing the wines to fit your mood

and who you’re with.”

The menu at Le Quai changes every three weeks. “We have a lot of

regular customers, so the menu evolves for them, and we want to

optimize what’s in season,” Chris says. “We’re a young, small group,

and Dennis and I believe that you have to let your staff fly like a

bird; we don’t want to restrict them.”

Executive chef Jason Mazur and sous chef Erik Lorentzen share free

reign with the menu.

On Valentine’s weekend, Le Quai serves a choice of a three-course

or five-course prix-fixe menu ($85 to $105). After complimentary

amuse bouche to start, the first course begins with a seductive

seafood trio of Dungeness crab salad in a horned orange syrup, seared

Ahi and butter-poached Maine lobster served in a kumquat butter

sauce. The second course is a sauteed John Dory in a sensual medley

of yellow corn, Chanterelle and trumpet mushrooms and caramelized red

onion, served with milled fingerling potatoes in a lemon caper sauce.

Third course is an intermezzo of passion fruit sorbet. And the fourth

course includes a savory grilled prime ribeye served with sauteed

duck foie gras, asparagus, potato gratin and fried leeks in a sweet

Port reduction. The fifth course is a special Valentine’s Day

dessert.

Regular dinner menu dishes include 11 appetizers, including a

terrine of foie gras with quince marmalade, brioche toast and micro

green salad; butternut squash agnolotti with sage brown butter with

parmesan cheese; and a golden beet salad with Point Reyes blue

cheese, mache and sherry vinaigrette. Appetizer prices range from $9

to $55. Eight entree choices include beef shortrib and veal oso bucco

with cauliflower gratin, asparagus tips, kale and shortrib jus; and

grilled rack of lamb with couscous, cranberries and mint vinaigrette.

Entrees prices range from $27 to $33.

A cheese course includes a selection of five cheeses ($18).

Desserts (each $9) could include a blueberry Feuilletage crisp with

praline and toasted almond ice cream and roasted pineapple cake with

rum sauce and coconut ice cream

The 20-page wine list includes an elaborate list of foreign and

domestic wines. No wines by the glass, just half (two glasses) and

full bottles. Bottles start at $25.

Even in an open-air environment, Le Quai can still serve dinners

in light rains. “Our philosophy is, we take a problem and make it an

opportunity,” Chris says. “The few times when the rain is really

coming down, we can transfer guests to Overstreet’s. Light rain is no

problem.” On cool nights heat lamps and blankets keep guests warm.

Le Quai has a floor-to-ceiling wall of private wine lockers

available for rent on a yearly basis -- no corkage fees for members.

Le Quai also offers dock space for Duffys and can accommodate a

25-foot boat.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.