Barreling through Costa Rica

Stefanie Warren

In the fall of 2004, facing graduation and the beginning of my “adult

career,” travel seemed important. Two and a half years of law school

in Atlanta resulted in plenty of Delta frequent-flier miles. I also

had promised to visit a good friend from Thacher (my high school) in

Costa Rica, who was serving in the Peace Corps with her husband. I

knew the surf in Costa Rica was awesome, the water warm and that

another Thacher friend had a place to stay in Mal Pais on the Nicoya

Peninsula. I just needed a travel partner.

I asked my mom to come to Costa Rica with me because it seemed

time to celebrate. I was graduating from law school in May and moving

-- employed -- to San Diego. My mom had always listened to all the

complaints and bouts of academic self-confidence. It seemed fitting

that we should go on a nice trip together.

Costa Rica exceeded all of our expectations. We traveled for 10

days throughout the Nicoya Peninsula, and the sun shined every day.

Renting a car was the best decision we made, both to transport my

boards safely and to see the country at our own pace. We pulled over

to admire every iguana sunning on the road. Driving in the dry season

is manageable, but four-wheel drive is really, really important.

I mainly surfed at Playa Carmen in Mal Pais. My first paddle out

was an afternoon session of head-high barrels. The swell lasted

throughout the first week. Morning sessions were less crowded and

picturesque. In Mal Pais, there is minimal beachfront development, so

the view from the lineup is jungle and empty, sandy beach. Afternoon

glass-offs, which I enjoyed every day, included offshore conditions

several times and beautiful sunsets. Having your mom as your travel

partner, keeping an eye on your slides, towel and water bottle, is an

added bonus. Mal Pais attracts people from all over the world. In the

lineup, it was not unusual to hear several languages. On the beach,

my mom reported that the less inhibited Europeans provided sustained

amusement during my long afternoon sessions.

Mal Pais is mostly populated with shortboarders, since the main

break can be thumping beach break. I think it is most similar to the

Cliffs on a really good day in the fall, but warmer. Competent,

respectful longboarders are welcome. Playa Carmen has a more

consistent longer right, but some fun lefts come through.

When the swell backed down closer to shoulder-high, I finally got

some fun nose rides on my 9-footer.

* STEFANIE WARREN is a resident of Newport Beach.