Springdale Grille does it right

DINING OUT

As my dad and I drove to the Springdale Grille for lunch, I began

wondering when was the last time we actually dined out together?” No,

not in a group setting (we’d done that countless times over the

years), but just the two of us -- he and I, dad and son, John and

Johnny. Then it hit me: 1989, a Phoenix steakhouse was the last time

we dined together.

The Springdale Grille was my dad’s idea (a great one at that).

He’d been dying to go there since he spied their enticing lunch menu

earlier in the week. Upon entering, the hostess seated us at a

semi-circular booth in the dining room (there’s also booth seating in

the bar). Our server, who exuded a warm vibe, promptly took our drink

and appetizer requests.

When dining out my dad’s only request is that his Bud Light be

cold. It was. My only request, when I’m drinking soda, lemonade or

iced tea (as I was this day), is that my glass be refilled

frequently. It was. Our server, intuitively picking up on how fast I

downed my first glass, quickly placed a full carafe of iced tea on

the table. Well done.

For an appetizer, we got one of my dad’s favorites -- fried

calamari. Unlike any he had tried previously, these were long (4to 5

inches), thick pieces of calamari dipped in seasoned flour and

lightly, with an emphasis on lightly, fried. Too often the calamari

(usually small and ring-shaped) is so heavily battered and fried,

it’s hard to tell if you’re eating onion rings, clam strips or

calamari. Not at the Springdale Grille. My dad loved them.

Contemplating his main meal, my dad was torn between the

California beefeater sandwich and the fish and chips. I suggested he

order both and we could split them. Done. Both were excellent. The

California beefeater is sliced prime rib, topped with jack cheese and

an Ortega chile, served on grilled sourdough bread with roasted

garlic mayonnaise. It came with spicy fries, curly-q style. The

flavorful prime rib made this a standout.

The fish and chips were three potato-sized pieces of Icelandic cod

in beer batter. The coating was soft, yet slightly crispy, with the

beer batter gently hugging, not strangling, the huge pieces of all

white fish. No tartar sauce or malt vinegar necessary for this tasty

fish, just a couple squirts of lemon. The chips, which are good, are

Springdale’s natural fries (think steak fries with ridges).

For those of you still holding to your New Year’s resolutions,

Springdale Grille offers several “smart eating” lunch selections.

They feature such Atkins friendly plates as charbroiled chicken

breast, fresh wild king salmon, or ground sirloin patty. The above

items are served with either steamed vegetables or a garden salad.

There’s also “Dave’s” special -- fresh sliced turkey breast, sliced

tomatoes, cottage cheese and fresh fruit. I don’t know who Dave is,

but he must be in great shape.

I do know Tony and Rachelle, my friends who frequent Springdale

Grille for dinner. Tony raves about the aged filet mignon. A 10-ounce

portion is cut to order, wrapped in bacon and topped with French

fried onions. I can’t wait to try this. Rachelle loves the “La

Brique” (so much so, she orders it every single time). A half pound

of ground sirloin is topped with mushroom gravy and served on a piece

of grilled cheese bread. Comes with garlic mashed potatoes. True

comfort food.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Springdale Grille’s signature

dinner item, the prime rib. Their U.S.D.A. “choice” prime rib is oven

roasted to perfection. They offer a nine ounce cut, a twelve ounce

cut, and for all you manly men, a twenty eight ounce bone-in cut.

My Dad and I had a great lunch. Fried calamari $7, a couple Bud

Lights $6, California beefeater $9, fish and chips $8. First lunch

with Dad in fifteen years: priceless.

* JOHN VOLO is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail [email protected]