Polina’s Salerno celebrates 30-year success

Glori Fickling

Unquestionably the oldest Italian restaurant in our town, Polina’s

Salerno was simply called Salerno when launched in 1974 by Tony

Manzi, a native son of Italy.

When his longtime dedicated waitress Paula Ferrell purchased the

establishment 10 years ago come Valentine’s Day, Manzi’s affectionate

Italian name for her, Polina, was appropriately added to the title.

Equally interesting is the fact that head chef Carmelo Rodarte has

remained at the kitchen helm since Day One and continues to feature

the exact family recipes he was meticulously taught by the original

owner. Add to all this, Ferrell’s son Makiyo, who was a toddler when

his mother was waitressing those many years ago, is now prideful

manager of the restaurant.

While little has been altered design wise here, the ceiling,

sparklingly festooned with strings of tiny white lights, along with

lipstick red table covers beautifully enhance the old world charm.

The recently revised lunch menu makes for current news, a half

dozen daily specials at $8.50 now served with a small house salad or

cup soup and a soft drink of choice. The two soups are pasta e

fagiole (pasta and beans) and hearty minestrone laden with fresh

vegetables in a rich, savory broth. This is the same flavorful potage

that the Ferrells offered on Christmas Hospitality night to a huge

entourage who chowed down in hungry appreciation outside the

restaurant.

Featured entrees on the bill of fare include the famed linguini

laced with red or white clam sauce. The latter, pungently seasoned

fresh garlic and extra virgin olive oil, was lauded by a popular

national magazine a few years ago as best in the U.S.A. Add to these

items, mostaccioli with marinara or meat sauce, fettuccini Alfredo,

meat or cheese ravioli, individual pizzas and ever-popular spaghetti

with meatballs.

Sandwiches, based on crisply crusted foot long baguettes, are

$7.50 to $8.95. These encompass parmigiana style veal, chicken or

eggplant, each deliciously oozing mozzarella cheese, plus sausage

with peppers and meatball stuffings; add $1 for soup or salad.

The newest star among luncheon salads, priced from $4 to $7.95, is

an addictive gorgonzola/pine nut presentation constructed of chopped

romaine lettuce in a light vinaigrette dressing generously sprinkled

with zesty gorgonzola cheese, crunchy roasted pine nuts, then framed

with slender slices of fresh pear.

Main courses of cannelloni, manicotti, meat or vegetable lasagna

and fettuccine primavera are prefaced with sliced baguettes, butter

pats and the house salad. Each is less than $10, the addition of

shrimp or chicken to the fettuccini entree, $4 more. Featured entrees

sided with pasta, salad, bread and butter start at $9 for sausage and

peppers going to $14.95 for shrimp scampi.

Calamari marinara is a big hit, tender rings and tendrils, sans

any breading or flour dip, sauteed to toothsome perfection. A hefty

mound of this delicacy sided with angel hair pasta in savory tomato

sauce, is also available enhanced with Salerno’s renowned

garlic/olive oil. Rounding out the bill of fare is eggplant

parmigiana, chicken cacciatore or parmigiana, and a quarter of veal

dishes -- casalinda, scallopine, piccata and parmigiana.

In addition to a select list of boutique vintages, house wines are

priced at $6.50 a glass, $15 a half liter, $25 a liter. Bottled beers

include Italian imports, Samuel Adams and other domestic brews. When

next you visit this charming trattoria, or if this will be a first

encounter, do check out the corner of Beach Street and Ocean Avenue

where reposes Andrew Meyers’ award winning sculpture, the Shopper,

which was ceremoniously unveiled as preface to last week’s Art Walk.

NEWS BITES

If you missed the dynamite reception at Coast Gallery last

Saturday for famed Clifford Bailey you missed an opportunity to enjoy

his fascinating paintings characterizing jazz musicians and his

whimsical new series of personality sketches conveying magnetic

character portraiture.

A jazz trio entertained and appetizers by Aegean Cafe complemented

the evening. Agean Cafe will also cater a Christmas-themed reception

for popular Thomas Arvid tomorrow from 6 to 9 p.m. when the artist

will personally autograph his sumptuous new coffee table book

depicting the potent realism of California wines and cocktails.

This continuing wonderland of creativity is coordinated by owner

Kevin Pieropan and is brilliantly displayed via massive windows which

dramatically front Coast Highway at the Collection Downtown. Charming

consultant Rachel Luby has further details at (949) 376-8376.

Christmas festivities started early this year commencing with the

glowing Frostbite Soiree cocktail reception at [seven-degrees]

benefiting the Multiple Sclerosis Foundation. Guests were welcomed

with a snowy white carpeted entry and led up to the sparkling

alfresco roof alive with music and brilliantly illuminated with a

wonderland of tiny white lights.

Tabu Grill’s enterprising owner Nancy Wilhelm graciously

contributed the services of executive chef Jeff Platt who personally

created delectable appetizers for the occasion. Tasty breaded

artichoke hearts with curry aioli were passed by charming servers

along with prosciutto wrapped watermelon in a honey balsamic glaze,

and smoked king salmon rolled with dill creme fraiche and red caviar.

Surprise desserts delighting the enormous turnout were Platt’s

ingenious chocolate port wine bites and smoked chocolate truffles

with dried cherries and crunchy macadamia nuts. Tabu Grill is at

(949) 494-7743.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].