Delicious affordable fare defines Pomodoro Cucina Italiano

Glori Fickling

They said it couldn’t be done, that the inexpensive price structure

was only a come-on for such superlative Italian cuisine.

But, after almost one year on busy Forest Avenue, the buzz of

activity that continually pervades Pomodoro Cucina Italiano has

absolutely proved them wrong.

This modest little neighborhood trattoria immediately caught on

with locals. They were quick to share the welcoming creation of owner

Adriano Paganini, who launched the concept in San Francisco about 10

years ago.

Boasting more than 35 such venues, the enterprising restaurateur

has blessed South Orange County with three equally popular dining

destinations.

What this gracious young Italian has brought to our town is the

food of his homeland, personally devised and coupled with an

affordably priced menu in a casual setting. Add to this, friendly

service from an enthusiastic, high-energy crew of mostly local

residents whose dedicated teamwork insures a place one can always

count on.

Arrive with a party to share a raft of family style favorites or

settle alone at the bar for drinks and snacks as you watch the crew

perform from the immaculate display kitchen. Even general manager

Robyn Nakamura may be dishing up such dishes as pork and beef

tortellini lavished with roasted prosciutto, sage and parmesan cream

sauce. Or perhaps manager Michael Fitzsimmons will be stirring up

frutta de mare combining succulent bivalves with spaghetti in a

sprightly sauce livened with garlic, wine and tomatoes. Tags of $8.50

and $10.50 respectively are illustration of the menu’s affordability.

To begin lunch and dinner on a happy note sourdough baguette

slices will grace your table, and rather than the usual balsamic

vinaigrette dipping blend, a side of olive oil is lightly enhanced

with a dash of lemon and scattering of flavorful pesto herbs. The

addictive unction adds a surprising extra dimension to almost any

dish on the balanced bill of fare. For openers, Prince Edward Island

mussels come sizzling in an iron skillet with garlic, butter, herbs,

white wine then crowned with crisply grilled rustic bread. Tender

calamari rings repose succulently with chopped zucchini, garlic,

chili flakes and tomato. Pinwheels of creamy polenta wrap fontina

cheese with browned butter and sage leaves, perfect foil for dipping

the savory olive oil starter.

Menu categories begin with aforementioned antipasti plus insalate

e zuppe -- minestrone and tortellini soups or spinach and caprese

salads -- priced at $3.95 to $4.50, a few dollars more for grande

portions. In addition there are ala carte selections of pasta

specialties; seafood, chicken and vegetarian entrees; and such light

dishes as capellini, eggplant and salmon. These range at dinner from

$6.75 to $8.50. Vegetable sides of sauteed broccoli, spinach, sprouts

and Tuscan white beans at $3.95, are all seasoned Italian style with

lots of garlic, fresh herbs and extra virgin olive oil or

occasionally anointed with flavorful browned butter.

An octave of main courses featuring beef, chicken, seafood are

priced from $7.50 for a spicy sauteed vegetable combination, going to

$12.95 for grilled Angus rib eye steak draped in arugula with shaved

pecorino cheese and Tuscan beans. Each is accompanied with

appropriate complements. For $1.95 more add minestrone or a

gorgonzola seasoned mista salad.

Heading a quintet of vino bianco and 10 vino rosso wines served in

traditional squatty glasses is the impressive $4.50 house selection.

Soft drinks include Italian fruit sodas. Luscious finales are

mascarpone, tiramisu and panne cotta at $4.25, great with any of the

hot and cold cafe choices.

NEWS BITES

Mark’s restaurant may be long gone from its once popular South

Coast Highway site, but no one knows better than Laguna’s

multitudinous charities that Mark de Palma’s catering business is

very much alive and cooking.

His recent contributions of dinner and cocktails to raise funds

for Laguna Community Clinic was a glowing example of this beneficent

entrepreneur’s never-ending contributions to a variety of worthy

charities. The clinic’s sold-out dinner dance last Saturday at

Marconi Automotive Museum proved yet another winner. The elegantly

attired entourage enjoyed delicious quesadilla triangles, cashew

crusted chicken bites, crunchy bruschetta toasts and tiny potatoes

bites proffered by proficient servers as cocktails were sipped and

the fascinating plethora of silent auction items perused.

When doors were ceremoniously opened to the main room, guests were

greeted with rhythmic musical medleys for dancing and a surrounding

display of million dollar vehicles. Salad plates awaiting at lovely

flower-laden tables provided a prelude to dinner which was expedited

via lavish buffets at each area. Tempting courses ranged from tender

filet mignon, plump shrimp, pepper crusted roast salmon, to such

delectable side dishes as sauteed potatoes, asparagus spears, hearts

of palm, red and yellow bell peppers. Finale temptations included

miniature Napoleons, chocolate truffles, macaroons, chocolate mousse

and varied apres-dinner beverages. To contact Mark’s Catering: (949)

768-7900.

Dancing in the Sand replete with dinner, sounds like an intriguing

new concept by Gallimaufry Performing Arts, Laguna’s newest artistic

venture. Conceived earlier this year, principals Jodie Gates and

Steve Josephson promise dancers from New York City Ballet,

performances from popular theater productions and a Tropical buffet

dinner for the Oct. 2 event arranged on the shores of Emerald Bay.

Graciously hosted by Miriam Smith, tickets are $85. Information:

(949) 499-5060 .

FOR THE RECORD

The correct phone number for Anat Falafel is (949) 715-7688.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].