Anastasia Nights introduce new dining delights

Glori Fickling

Anastasia, the sophisticated boutique/restaurant on Ocean Avenue, has

enjoyed a well-deserved reputation for fabulous European fashions and

a menu that has invited discriminating diners to enjoy breakfast and

lunch daily since 1996.

Now, principal Amir Garavi has added the further attraction of an

enticing dinner menu bringing the charming cafe-style dining room to

welcoming new heights. Under direction of executive chef Jerry Baker,

who has gained renown for the box suppers that add to the enjoyment

of monthly cinema events at [seven-degrees], an innovative menu is at

the ready to enjoy until 10 p.m. nightly.

To the delight of new and steady guests, the adventuresome bill of

fare was launched at an invitational reception July 10, simultaneous with the introduction of charming general manager Lori Theis, who

arrived from her tenure as wine director at a respected San Francisco

dining establishment. Her personal selection of 18 vintages including

two available by the glass and three bubblies adds beautifully to the

dining experience, each pouring graciously expedited in large,

sparkling goblets. Baker’s considerable culinary talent shines well

beyond his unique approach to creative recipes. A mere glance at the

whimsical menu reveals his spontaneous sense of humor. Clearly, this

is one chef who has fun, fun, fun describing his delicious recipes.

Begin your evening with “ying yang thang,” a large, shallow bowl

of superlative chilled soup, 1/2 red, 1/2 yellow gleaned from baby

organic tomatoes. Drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh

basil sprinkles, the twin potage is floated with little boccatini

mozzarella “croutons.”

Relish the “blast of Peruvian fire” that defines Hawaiian hearts

of palm, delicate slices alternating plump scallops torched by hand

in a yuzu jalapeno vinaigrette. Tender Belgian endive leaves seasoned

with orange chipotle vinaigrette boast savory taste and texture via

candied pistachios and a “crumble o’ maytag blue cheese.”

“That rack is stacked,” describes a quartet of succulent lamb

chops proudly upended, seasoned with mint jalapeno pesto and a sweet

touch of onion marmalade and balsamic syrup. Add to these memorable

appetizers Baker’s brandade, delectable clumps of mashed potato

enmeshed with slivers of halibut, crab and rockfish mounded between

crisp La Brea toasts. The exceptionally flavorful dozen

palate-pleasers are tabbed from $6 to $15.

That each perfect portion is picturesquely posed against oversize

white porcelain plates in varying shapes, considerably adds to the

enjoyment. Complementing glistening square tables are graceful,

stainless-steel flatware swirled in crisp white linen napkins,

miniature shaded votive lamps and tiny crystal salt and pepper cubes.

Entrees, called middles, compose a cacophony of culinary taste

sensations priced from $16 to $30. A snowy serving of halibut filet

crusted with “Ginger (not Mary Ann)” and cracked pepper gets a burst

of sweetness from “mashed, bashed and smashed” sweet potatoes kissed

with vanilla buerre blanc. “Thai me up and spank me” relates to a

grilled chicken stack embellished with coconut and red curry

cassoulet with shitakes and steamed jasmine rice. “Vitameatavegimin’

(who could forget Lucy?)” combines a three-egg frittata with Humboldt

Fog, dry-aged goat cheese sided with crisp arugula. Tag this one for

a late night supper entry.

No epicurean experience is complete without a luscious finale,

where Baker’s talented wife, Christine, enters the picture preferring

a tempting trio of delectable desserts. Particularly decadent is the

warm molten chocolate cake, a fudgy, crunchy concoction delectably

crowned with a scoop of frosty cappuccino gelato. A black and white

blueberry pot brownie takes to panna cota gelato and a shower of

ganache. But you must not miss the intriguing “Jerry been berry,

berry good to me!!!” a wrap of fresh peaches and berries in a

fabulously flaky crostada. Panna cotta gelato crowns this exceptional

ending which, sans ice cream, begs to be taken home to savor as a

bountiful breakfast eye-opener.

NEWS BITES

Update! Special mention must be made regarding the invitational

soiree introducing Anastasia Nights menu last Saturday because the

evening progressed superbly with cooperation of the entire wait staff

adding to festivities. The restaurant’s adaptable square tables were

positioned so that guests were seated in friendly groups to savor and

share each morsel. Sparkling wine goblets were constantly replenished

as appetizers and entrees were expedited. It was especially

fascinating to observe how each taste treat was showcased in

appropriate-sized vessels, in contrast to the abundant porcelain

plates that dramatically frame dinner portions. An enticing epicurean

experience, a terrific time, pretty much summed up the reactions of a

delighted entourage.

To answer the often-asked question as to what is happening on the

long-vacant premises once occupied by beautiful Tortilla Flats, the

last word received is that the recently purchased property is

destined to become a prime steakhouse. I have been promised

additional details later this month, so please stay tuned.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].