Laguna’s super Sunday champagne brunch scene

Glori Fickling

There is, without question, no more delicious way to launch the week

than with a wonderful Sunday brunch. At many restaurants, this repast

is synonymous with lavish buffet presentations. For those of us who

prefer being pampered with full service menus, however, Laguna Beach

happily boasts at least two such enticing restaurants. Each of these

offers a prix fixe bill of fare that further includes complimentary

sparkling wine.

What more dazzling setting for this Sabbath day delight than the

Mexican Riviera brunch at beautiful Las Brisas where the shimmering

blue Pacific Ocean outside your table is enhanced with the splendor

of colorful rose gardens. Here executive chef Javier Zambrano

displays his considerable expertise via a four course offering which

is as delicious to behold as it is to palatably savor. The serving of

dewy melon slices lavishly sprinkled with assorted berries will

tickle your tastebuds as attentive servers continually keep the

bubbles sparkling in your champagne flute. There is a choice of soup,

perhaps velvety lobster bisque, or the herb vinaigrette salad of

crisp baby greens and orange slices.

The raft of entrees is so enticing it is difficult to choose any

one. A favorite is tender filet mignon seasoned with tequila

bordelaise posed atop spinach and teamed with sauteed vegetables.

There is lamb loin, chicken Milanese, sand dabs, trout, all with

interestingly creative variations of potatoes and eggs. A trio of big

garlicky prawns perched over angel hair pasta is among several

seafood selections which include shellfish stuffed omelet’s, crepes,

quiches and more. Dessert of the day may be creme brulee, coconut

flan, cheesecake or other of the chef’s whim. Tariff for all this

bounty is $24.95, half that for youngsters under 12 years old.

* * *

When your taste runs to the adventuresome cuisine of Thailand, why

not head straight to Laguna’s Royal Thai where principals Sam and Lek

Tila invite you to savor their “My Thai Brunch,” as the four course

menu proclaims.

These delights are served on the al fresco front porch where a

central pond contains colorful koi fish and in the cozy dining room,

its picturesque ambience adorned with ethnic treasures. This is a

$13.95 repast which commences with Katong Thong, tiny pastry shells

filled with curry-seasoned chicken and onions with a cup of crisp

cucumber relish for topping. The Tila Salad poses tasty grilled

chicken strips over lettuce studded with bean sprouts, tomatoes and

red onions. a dollop of seasoned mayonnaise sided for mixing.

Prior to the frosty coconut ice cream finale, there’s a choice of

half a dozen flavorfully healthful entrees, each presented with a big

scoop of white rice. Mint leaf pork combines sauteed slices of lean

meat in garlicky seasoned spinach, red pepper strips, onions and mint

leaves. Broccoli beef combines heaps of both items sauteed with

oyster sauce. Angel wings are actually chicken wings incredibly

stuffed with mildly spiced chicken chunks, glass noodles, onions,

then served with sweet and sour vegetables. Chicken curry is mildly

spiced with curry and tempered with creamy coconut milk. And hot

basil shrimp features a medley of tangy crustaceans teamed with

sauteed vegetables in hot basil sauce.

NEWS BITES

In another of their continuing philanthropic contributions, this

one for “Around the World ... a taste of travel and cuisine” to

benefit our Laguna Art Museum, coastal chefs donated precious time

and talent to a superlative reception on the sprawling Festival of

Arts grounds.

The festive May 6 evening was enhanced with a plethora of silent

auction gifts, vacations and trips to wondrous worldwide

destinations. Guests were treated to tasty tidbits served by waiters

bearing trays of delicious smoked trout mousse, chicken livers with

black truffles, assorted cheeses and sides of crisp crackers. These

were the creation of chef Nancy Milby whose Laguna Culinary Arts

display was conveniently located next to the wine and cocktail bar.

Following the lengthy auction, a famished entourage flocked to

grab seats and devour the many temptations at bountifully bedecked

stations representing a half dozen dining establishments. It is

important to thank lovely administrative assistant JoAnn Story for

graciously reinstating our two seats when the table we had staked out

earlier was filled.

Other Laguna Beach restaurateurs who showed their culinary prowess

were chef Gregory Short, representing The Loft at Laguna’s

prestigious Montage Resort and chef Christopher Blobaum, pride of the

Surf and Sand Resort. Short delighted diners with pan-seared Dover

scallops with braised spring garlic, asparagus spears and confit

tomato. Blobaum made a creative culinary statement for salads by

generously studding sprightly organic greens with roasted cherries,

almonds and goat cheese crostini.

The event was a resounding success bringing to Laguna Art Museum

coffers a phenomenal $35,000, “twice the tally of last year,”

according to public relations director Stu Byer.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].